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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 10, 2015, 10:15 am 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
When I was laying out my steering, it seemed that Ackermann was really determined by the spindle more than anything else. Moving the rack up and down effected bump steer. Moving the rack fore/aft affected Ackermann some but not enough to really worry about. I have 3 positions fore/aft so I can adjust it once it is on the road but I have a feeling I will leave it in the middle setting.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: July 11, 2015, 12:11 am 
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Location: Green Bay, WI
Run87k wrote:
Looking at the seat back in the picture and the seat bottom, it appears that the back was done on an English wheel. If that is the case I'd really like to see more pictures as the metal work goes on. I think there might be one or two others here that would like to see as well. :wink:


It was an a english wheel, as well as an argon bottle, Ha. I will post more of the wheel when we get there. He made his own wheel with purchased dollies, it is neat but you have to justify more than just home use its not small. The seat is rough but its just mock up.
I did finalize the steering and elevation on the chassis, so now to build the bracket, buy tube for the shaft as well as U joints. I also have to get a hold of Jack and buy a nosecone.

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Last edited by Tundra 7 on October 20, 2015, 6:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 7, 2015, 10:28 pm 
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I finally get to update, Waited almost 2 weeks for my collapsible steering shaft from Borgson. So with that I was able to get the column bolted up. I did this today, hopefully on Sunday I can add the Bearing eye supports and call it done.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 16, 2015, 1:13 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
So I have another 1/2-3/4" to pull forward yet. I thought the Ackerman was coming from the rack being behind the center of pivot. It can be ahead also?


Ackerman comes from the relation of the outer pivot (tie rod attachment) on the steering arm, relative to the 3D location of the lower end of the SAI(KPI) line.
Actually 2D (plan view) might be more correct to say.
Or the location of the KPI line in the plane the outer end of the steering arm lays in?
Hmm.

Put another way: correctly, lengthening the outer tie rod is just to *reach* to the new position. Almost could say you are confusing cause (making the outer tie rod longer because the steering arm is out closer to the brake backing plate) and effect (making the tie rod link longer in and of itself).
Maybe not a good use of the cause and effect wording, but hoping you get what I mean.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 29, 2015, 12:58 pm 
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iadr wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
So I have another 1/2-3/4" to pull forward yet. I thought the Ackerman was coming from the rack being behind the center of pivot. It can be ahead also?


Ackerman comes from the relation of the outer pivot (tie rod attachment) on the steering arm, relative to the 3D location of the lower end of the SAI(KPI) line.
Actually 2D (plan view) might be more correct to say.
Or the location of the KPI line in the plane the outer end of the steering arm lays in?
Hmm.

Put another way: correctly, lengthening the outer tie rod is just to *reach* to the new position. Almost could say you are confusing cause (making the outer tie rod longer because the steering arm is out closer to the brake backing plate) and effect (making the tie rod link longer in and of itself).
Maybe not a good use of the cause and effect wording, but hoping you get what I mean.



I do get it, When its all working you can actually see it and I was able to plumb to to the floor and measure the difference. pretty cool actually

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: August 29, 2015, 1:05 pm 
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I started fitting up the nose so I can move onto the scuttle, I bought the inserts from Jack and thought I needed to add some shots. I don't think a lot of guys have seen them yet. Should work out pretty nice. Ill cleco the inserts in, do a partial glass on the inside to hold it all in place, pull the clecos and finish the glass. bondo only on the outside.

Off to the store for a fiberglass kit now.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 1, 2015, 12:36 am 
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And don't forget to sand the bonding surfaces down to fresh 'glass before laminating new materials to them. It's the only sure-fire way to clean contaminants off. Anything from 36 grit to 80 grit will work a treat.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 1, 2015, 6:54 am 
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Yup Jack, sanded down with a sanding pad on 4-1/2" grinder cleaned with acetone. Worked real well.
I'll have a couple picks tonight. It's set up like a rock right now. Still have a couple spots to hit. I'll probably just bondo the outer surface.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 1, 2015, 10:19 pm 
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I wasn't quite sure how to start this project and it ended up to be so easy. I was not all that sure about the fiberglass process. Not a big deal pretty straight forward. Now to set the dzuses fasteners and move on to the scuttle and radiator mounts. I was half way hoping I didn't have to cut the sides of the nose down,but I'll have to. lost too much room for radiator. Oh well it should look cool with a hood scoop.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 13, 2015, 12:33 pm 
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Well we hit the 1yr mark this week and I am working on the shock mounts. Here is where you guys get to voice an opinion, of which there is never a shortage of, :) .
So which mounting will work better?. A side mount in which I have a mitered bracket to build or a top mount. the side mount I can reenforce from inside by putting a tube between the mounts to brace them.
Getting these buggers square with the chassis is also not any fun. If I am looking at this right these do have to be absolutely square? I also only have 1-11/16" of room from center of my mock up strut to the inside of the upper A arm. Is this enough? doesn't seem like much.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 13, 2015, 2:03 pm 
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If you extend the tube will it good a good base height for headlights?

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: September 13, 2015, 3:02 pm 
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I suppose it wouldn't take much for that. Good idea. That tube is just a random piece for illustration.

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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: October 3, 2015, 12:29 pm 
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The last week I finished the coiler mounts all around and the gas tank supports, so it sits level. Cut the end caps and baffles. have to order pump bracket and sender, weld it up and at let thats done. the suspension is on struts for a while till I can put an order in for a set of Gaz. This winter. On to laying out for pedals and shop for headlights. Need to make a mount for those too WHEW!! :D


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: October 4, 2015, 9:21 pm 
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So this weekend was design and making aluminum pedals. The rough set i am now mocking up. Height of pedal, individual location. This way I get to sit in my seat and PRETEND (with a beer). :cheers: it great!. This week I'll have to think of a pedal box design and start that. Between having the money to order stuff and getting stuff in the mail its nothing to have 3-5 projects going at once. I feel like I have ADD.


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 Post subject: Re: Tundra 7 442
PostPosted: October 14, 2015, 8:26 pm 
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Inspiration picture. Isn't this a but. I just found paint codes for Ferrari red. They had many reds over the years. So thats the goal Red with silver rims. What a guy can jump a head and dream a little right!.


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