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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 12:04 am 
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Location: Oregon City, OR
Walk around vid…

https://youtu.be/fb4OmVYzUBY

10,000 steps done, 10,000 to go. Still have a number of loose ends to wrap up the chassis but getting close. Hoping to start diving into all the tedious plumbing/wiring/controls in the next couple of weeks.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 12:15 am 
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RTz wrote:
Walk around vid…

https://youtu.be/fb4OmVYzUBY

10,000 steps done, 10,000 to go. Still have a number of loose ends to wrap up the chassis but getting close. Hoping to start diving into all the tedious plumbing/wiring/controls in the next couple of weeks.



Very nice!

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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 7:29 am 
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Nicely done. Very clean. Who made the radiator? Five inch core made to order? I guess the tilt was to allow for a shorter front overhang but keep from notching the curved bottom of the nose or reshaping to squaring it off? The thickness as well as the tilt will make baffling important to force the air through the core.

It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the cowl access, wipers, and heat/defrost system. Vintage air makes interesting systems but I’m not crazy about using a core and blower that did not come in a production vehicle for future replacement.

For the shifter attachment, consider a tube threaded to match the shift knob, with a ½ x 2 inch tube welded across the top in a tee. Add a jamb nut at the base, 7/16 nylon bush and thrust washers for a 5/16 x 2.75 cross bolt for the 1x1/8 strip clevis welded to 1/2 inch tube. Add a drop bend to the shift link behind the level clevis, down to an inch above the tunnel. This arrangement should not rotate on the shift lever with shifter movement that could potentially loosen the jamb nut. Lower friction than single shear block, high leverage to tweak ratio at the remote lever, tighter tolerance than a single shear block link that relies on thrust load for longitudinal axis rotation.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 8:16 am 
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Bonus points on the frame design for the engine mounting system. looks great :cheers:
Davew


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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 10:10 am 
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OK, I'm officially jealous now. :lol:

I too would be interested in who made the radiator.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 10:44 am 
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Thank you for the compliments gentlemen, really appreciate it.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Who made the radiator? Five inch core made to order? I guess the tilt was to allow for a shorter front overhang but keep from notching the curved bottom of the nose or reshaping to squaring it off? The thickness as well as the tilt will make baffling important to force the air through the core.


It's an off the shelf Coolex out of the UK specifically intended for Locosts. People that run them are typically happy, sometimes reporting improved cooling after running something else first. Thought I'd give them a whirl. Not quite 5" though :) Core is 2.75" and tanks are a smidge under 3 3/8". If I remember correctly they offer two other core options as well. Mounting was a compromise of the items you mentioned as well as inlet/outlet fitment. I'll plate/seal it to the nosecone and expect it'll work sufficiently.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the cowl access, wipers, and heat/defrost system. Vintage air makes interesting systems but I’m not crazy about using a core and blower that did not come in a production vehicle for future replacement.


Won't be even a little interesting… it's a sunny day windscreen car, nor defrost or wipers required.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
For the shifter attachment…<snip>


Interesting, got a sketch or picture to show this more clearly?

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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 3:13 pm 
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Rad looks huge in that pic. Probably close to the ebay scion racing rad dims.

Started drawing it out and found getting the ratio right would put the link up against the knob. This is better. Block of aluminum step drilled for the shift lever, slotted for pinch bolt, forms cross shaft. Remote lever has bolt head welded to the bottom and a flange mounted spherical sunk into the tunnel.


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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 6, 2021, 7:17 pm 
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Got it, thank you. I don't know that I need to go as far as having a remote shifter. At only 4" forward of the steering plane It's probably not as far forward as it appears in the video. Keep in mind my instrument panel (and wheel) is quite a bit farther rearward than a McSorely or book frame which probably exaggerates the perception that it is too far forward. For now I'll top it with a ball and see if I hate it. I can always do the remote shifter down the road if I find that I do.

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PostPosted: May 22, 2021, 11:51 am 
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In the middle of buying a house so the high cost Locost has mostly been low on the priority list lately. Still, a small handful of items have gotten done or been started... Clutch line complete, brake lines have been run out to each corner bulkhead, along with the pressure switch for brake lights at the rear. Fuel tank, Aeromotive Phantom pump/sump and sender installed (plug for Boyd Welding - they did a great job fab'ing the tank). Difficult to see in the pictures but the tank is fully neoprene isolated - no metal on metal contact. Upholstery shop finished carving up the seat foam so I brought the set home for test fitment prior to coverings. I may make a tweak or two, but overall very happy with fitment.


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PostPosted: May 22, 2021, 12:51 pm 
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Looks good. Beautiful tank. Clutch master is inside?

What density upholstery foam are they using? The back should be around a 2.0 where the bottom should be around 3.0. If the foam is the typical sofa upholstery density (versus “high resilient” sofa foam) and the back is the same density as the bottom, add two 3/8 thick layers of rebond carpet underlayment between the foam and the base panel (use 3m spray foam-safe adhesive). You can have them cut a half inch out of that proves too high a cushion. Automotive foams are much denser than sofa/ mattress grade.

Typically, the base foam is firm with a thin, softer foam layer wrapping the firm foam that also serves to soften the edges/corners.

Ask for a marine grade thread that is UV resistant and doesn’t rot and mildew if it gets wet. Opt for a marine quality urethane vinyl or fabric.

You might add vinyl covered foam side panels to act and look like seat bolsters if the belts don’t get in the way. Might want to narrow the seat bottom at the back for belt clearance so the hardware doesn’t dig into the vinyl.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: May 22, 2021, 2:35 pm 
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Looks great. Don't forget to run a ground wire from the tank since it is isolated. I like the traditional seating arrangement. I agree with MV8 on the clearance for the seat belt mounting. Might want to add some lumbar support while you are in there. :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 23, 2021, 5:38 pm 
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MV8, Clutch master is on top of the top hung Tilton pedals. You can see the arrangement in the last video I posted. You're correct - it is high resiliency foam. It's PLENTY firm (still waiting for the shop to let me know the actual density rating). Upon my initial order I was concerned about bottoming out but after receiving them and sitting in the car for a while (making the obligatory sounds, of course) I could have gone 1/2 to 3/4" thinner on the bottom cushions. I'm still weighing cutting them down. Thanks for the recco on the marine grade thread, I'll pass that along.

Thanks Chuck, definitely will bond the tank, static can blow you're whole day :shock: :lol: Hmmm… I hadn't considered lumbar. I'll see if I can work that in :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 17, 2021, 12:43 pm 
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It lives!

Start up video…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN8abOc_3-g


Yesterday was the day. She fired RIGHT up first try. Unfortunately the lifters had collapsed so badly that it sounded like an entire crew was testing jackhammers under the valve cover. The engine sat for ~5 years so there shouldn’t be any surprise. After letting it run for a couple minutes a few times over the course of the day it has gotten MUCH better. Hopefully a little time and Seafoam will clear up the remaining ticks. It’s got a terrific BRAAP and afterburn burble, though it’s pretty loud. A second muffler will need to be added but I’ll just terrorize the neighbors for now :)

It’s a good day.


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PostPosted: July 17, 2021, 2:37 pm 
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Congrats Ron! :cheers:
You're right when you say BRAPP, going to be a feisty little car :drive:

When you say terrorize the neighbors, that brings back memories of a 67 Firebird I built when I was 20, I rebuilt the engine and had a lumpy cam in it. I ran it up and down the block where my apartment was with open headers. There were some girls I knew that lived on the 3rd floor of an apartment at the end of the block.......they said their dishes were rattling in their cupboard. luckily I only did it once before taking it to the muffler shop.

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PostPosted: July 17, 2021, 5:26 pm 
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Congrats, Ron!

All the installation looks so clean too. You could easily replace that small muffler by the driver with a much bigger one closer to engine bay. Then all you'd need is a heat shield near the driver. That would make entry/exit easier (and safer).

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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