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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 19, 2021, 11:54 pm 
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Sometimes you just end up doing something completely different than what you set out to do.

I went down to the shop to work on the Locost center tunnel... but look Ma, I made engine mounts!. I may add some stiffeners to the engine plates, will yank around on the engine once they're welded up fully and see if they flex any. Now I really need to do the center tunnel, can't do the gearbox mount until it's done.

I'll likely work on the Beetle this coming week though as it's supposed to be nice weather, that's not going to last too long. When it gets back to rainy all the time (which will be soon) the Locost will be #1 on the build list.

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PostPosted: September 27, 2021, 12:07 am 
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Well, today was one of those days. Struck out twice trying to make the second downtube on the Beetle roll cage, then it started raining. But I did get 4 trans tunnel tubes done right first try on the Locost (indoors). I'll take that as a toss. Supposed to rain tomorrow (new schedule at work so I get tomorrow off), so I should be able to get more of the tunnel built.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2021, 8:00 pm 
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Had some time to work on the Locost over the weekend, drivers seat is now mounted, passenger seat is most of the way there, shortened the Miata driveshaft and tacked it together for checking the trans tunnel fit and to get a length for having one built later on. Ended up having to move the left side lower tunnel tube as it was just not quite wide enough for the seats I have. This illustrates why pre-planning is important and I failed on this one. I'd measured the inside width of the chassis, made an educated guess on the tunnel width based on prior owners mockup and Vodou/SSR plans, and ordered a pair of seats that should have fit easily.

All of that didn't take into account the differential offset... the diff wasn't in the car at the time and I forgot about it.

Fortunately there was room to squeeze the tunnel on the left side a bit so all is well.


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PostPosted: October 5, 2021, 5:12 pm 
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Yeah, I saw the driveshaft before reading and I was like, WTF? :lol:

1/2 inch pinion offset is typical and not usually obvious with the naked eye. :shock:

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PostPosted: October 5, 2021, 7:39 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
1/2 inch pinion offset is typical and not usually obvious with the naked eye. :shock:


Which I knew but wasn't thinking about when I ordered the seats. I'll claim chemo-brain for an excuse and not having the diff in place when I was looking the chassis over before ordering... but honestly I just screwed up. Fortunately a saveable one though.

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PostPosted: October 10, 2021, 11:54 am 
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Ok, passenger seat mounts done! Yes, the passenger seat is one fixed position.

On to the rest of the tunnel!

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PostPosted: October 10, 2021, 2:58 pm 
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Seats? You have seats? Damn it, I knew I overlooked something :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: October 11, 2021, 12:14 pm 
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RTz wrote:
Seats? You have seats? Damn it, I knew I overlooked something :mrgreen:


I almost had seats that didn't fit...

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PostPosted: October 11, 2021, 12:16 pm 
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And presto we have a center tunnel on the Locost! That was today's project. Just needs a pair of angle braces and it will be complete. Also forgot to show this, I picked up some motorcycle front lights at auction a couple weeks back. One of these sets will go to the Locost. Haven't decided which as yet.

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PostPosted: October 29, 2021, 10:59 pm 
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Ok more progress has been had...

Made the angle pieces for the tunnel, and machined an adapter for the gearbox mount. The mount I'm using is an Energy Suspension Jeep engine mount (upside down). I have the lower plate made but not welded in yet. I think I'm going to slot it in the mill and make a doubler over the slotted area to facilitate removal of the mount in the future.

Also have (another) new toy in the shop, a vinyl cutter. This is intended to work with the CNC plasma table for sign making. So far it's amusing to operate, and yay I get to learn yet another piece of design software (VinylMaster in this case)

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US Cutter MH 30"

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First thing I designed and cut... new logo for the shop.

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PostPosted: October 31, 2021, 9:06 am 
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You might consider adding a strap from the bottom of you machined adapter to the bottom of the ppf case mount to reduce the likelyhood of breaking/cracking the trans case if you were to hit something or let the rubber front mounts do all the longitudinal locating where the rear mount can slip forward in an accident. Just a consideration that could save $$$ in the future.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 2:53 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
You might consider adding a strap from the bottom of you machined adapter to the bottom of the ppf case mount to reduce the likelyhood of breaking/cracking the trans case...


Given that Mazda used that transmission in B series pickups, with the mount attached to the same boss I'm using I don't think it will be an issue. The PPF was a Miata only thing.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 3:59 pm 
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Isn't it better to put the rubber parts closer to the CL (at the top and the spacer under) to limit lateral movement of the stick/tail from the massive torques?

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PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 4:19 pm 
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Rennkafer wrote:
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
You might consider adding a strap from the bottom of you machined adapter to the bottom of the ppf case mount to reduce the likelyhood of breaking/cracking the trans case...


Given that Mazda used that transmission in B series pickups, with the mount attached to the same boss I'm using I don't think it will be an issue. The PPF was a Miata only thing.


Different main case, different bell, different gears, not interchangeable.

It appears the B mount bolt holes are much further apart than on the miata trans.

The reason I ask is because I noticed how thin the material is on my miatas (I've had a few).
The ppf does tie into the area on the trans where you attached the mount, but with a thin metal piece between it and the actual ppf.

If your good then of course I am, but I just wanted to bring it up. :cheers:

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PostPosted: November 8, 2021, 7:44 pm 
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Bent Wrench wrote:
Isn't it better to put the rubber parts closer to the CL (at the top and the spacer under) to limit lateral movement of the stick/tail from the massive torques?


Polyurethane Jeep engine mount, no rubber involved.

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