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PostPosted: April 20, 2021, 1:48 pm 
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cs3tcr wrote:
...... The worst part about replacing the broken spring was having to cut the front eye bolt out as it had seized to the metalastic bushing.


No kidding!

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PostPosted: April 25, 2021, 7:58 pm 
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I got out the other day and went for a test drive. It still drifts right..... :ack: I decided to go through the front brakes. Previously I had bled them. At that time, I had looked at the pads and decided there was plenty left so I discounted them as being a cause. How wrong I was. Yesterday I got the Driver's side caliper removed for rebuilding. New seals and new pistons. this is what I found.


There is plenty of crud in there huh?
Attachment:
caliper inside.jpg
caliper inside.jpg [ 142.48 KiB | Viewed 647 times ]


While I was taking it apart I noticed something rather odd. The 2 pads were from 2 different mfgrs. They had different part numbers, slightly different friction shapes and different steel plate shapes. WTF? When I took apart the passenger side, Lots of crud again but his time both pads were identical. It also appeared that some PO had slathered the backs of all the pads with RTV. This had also stuck to the caliper! more WTF!

I wasn't prepared for having to replace the pads so I got them on order today. Should have them by the end of the week.


Attachments:
dofferent pads.jpg
dofferent pads.jpg [ 92.93 KiB | Viewed 647 times ]
pads glued.jpg
pads glued.jpg [ 71.69 KiB | Viewed 647 times ]

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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 7:50 am 
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Most likely "brake anti-squeal". Common to prevent pad vibes against the piston with light brake application before they started fitting full backing pads.

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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 8:38 am 
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MV8, I suspect you are right. I remember having to add that to brake pads back in the day. IIRC, I just ran a ring around the area that contacted the piston, not the entire back of the pads. Of course, back then I was working on American style single piston calipers on slides. I don't remember ever seeing RTV slathered on so much it stuck to the piston AND the caliper housing too. Not that the pressure from braking wasn't enough to overcome the tension of the RTV. It might have changed the 4 piston's balance under light braking.

I won't KNOW for sure if replacing the pads with 4 matched pads will fix the braking drift until later this week. I'm hoping that with the caliper rebuild and the pads along with the previous tightening of the rear u-bolts will fix it.

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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 9:29 am 
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Could be the side that it pulls toward has more wear in the suspension than the other, creating more toe out than the other side.
Is the caster and camber equal from side to side? Mismatch or old tires where one side has a different OD / leverage?
Pads more tapered on one wheel than the other?

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PostPosted: April 26, 2021, 2:23 pm 
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Tires are new all around and the tire pressure was checked before test drives. I know the suspension might cause the drifting. But I prefer to start at the most likely suspect and easiest ones to check instead of doing a full blown rebuild. The only adjustability built into this car is the toe in. Anything else requires new parts. Even though it has been shunted in the left front in the past. Some sheet metal had been pushed a bit. I don't think the chassis itself is knocked out of shape. I haven't done any accurate measuring. It may end up being that after. I get the easy stuff taken care of. WRT suspension, I think SkinnyG's video was very informative.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 7:51 am 
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I just watched the vid to see what you are talking about. Good job Skinny! :cheers:

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 10:45 am 
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Which SkinnyG video was that, Chuck?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: April 27, 2021, 1:32 pm 
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tmai5DeWos

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PostPosted: May 4, 2021, 12:00 pm 
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Project creep has happened. I ordered the brake pads and since I had some time before they arrived, I thought I'd just rebuild the entire front suspension. I had a major front end kit sitting on the shelf so why not. New King Pins, bushings (that had to be reamed to size) all new rubber bushings etc. Then, since all of those parts were out, I might as well blast them and paint them. For those of you that have not had an M.G., the front wheel bearings are not setup like US cars. Unlike US cars where you tighten up the nut to tight then back off the nut, there is an internal spacer and shims that holds the inner race of the bearings and grease seal collar tight to the hub so they cannot spin. The spacers are stacked such that 0.002 to 0.004" of end float of the hub is attained. I had all of that removed and did not assume that the PO had them right so I had to restack the spacers. I ended up with 0.001" on one side and 0.002" on the other. I don't think the 0.001"being below spec would be a problem at all. so I'm moving forward with that as it is. As it sits now, the entire system has been reassembled up the point of greasing the wheel bearings, mounting the calipers, installing the pads and bleeding the system.

While in there, I fount that the Armstrong shocks that do dual duty as the top control arm, were loose. All nuts required about 1/4 turn to tighten them up. That might have been another contributor to the drifting issue. It shouldn't be a problem now.


I hope to get this done sometime today or tomorrow. Then I get to test it out one more time. Wish me luck.

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PostPosted: May 4, 2021, 4:31 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Tmai5DeWos
Well thanks for sharing that Chuck, I for one am always interested how things are put together. I won't use the word 'differently' as it was just the way it was engineered for that particular vehicle at that point in time.
Hope it drives straight with no drift!

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PostPosted: May 5, 2021, 6:52 pm 
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Chuck - you might want to add the extra 0.001 to get to spec. When they heat up, things tend to get tighter which creates more heat. Better off too loose than too tight.


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PostPosted: May 5, 2021, 9:17 pm 
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Sean, I have read technical papers from Timken. They say that a very slight preload is best for bearing life. Better than lightly loose. It surprised me to read it. but if you go a bit tighter than "very slight" and the life drops quickly. As a matter of fact, pinion bearings are generally set with a preload. I personally don't know for sure who is right, the MG engineers or the inventers of the tapered roller bearing. Both have valid points. I decided to keep it at 0.001" right or wrong. :skep:

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PostPosted: May 5, 2021, 9:35 pm 
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Yesterday I got to finishing the work on the front end. then went for another test drive. I quickly found there was some clicking coming from the front somewhere that related to road speed. Quickly went home for analysis. I guess I'm getting forgetful in my old age. I forgot to torque the front wheels after the suspension work. Went for another ride and, wait for it.........still had the clicking. Left it for the night. Today, with a little bit of time overnight to think, I suspected that I had forgotten to tighten up the bolts holding the calipers on. Sure enough. They were loose. I tightened them to German specs. Gutentight! Then I went for another test drive. This time, no more clicking. But I did notice that now the right rear axle seal was leaking :BH: When I put new spider gear thrust washers in last week, I only had to remove one axle for the procedure. I chose the left one. I replaced the seal on that side on general principles. I left the right axel alone. I guess it felt neglected and demanded his turn. That fix was completed a couple of hours ago. I still need to re-bleed that rear brakes. This time I expect no surprises. Of course, "Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!" Stay tuned. Oh, by the way, after a 5 mile test run, the front wheels there was no indication of heated bearings. I know it isn;t much of a test, but it was something. All goes well, Saturday I'll give it a couple of 30 mile workouts and bring my IR thermometer. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: May 7, 2021, 9:03 pm 
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I bled the rear brakes today and then did a 50 mile run in stop and go traffic and up to 60MPH. 25 up to a friend's place and later 25 back. The car performed as well as I could hope for. :yay:

I didn't take the thermometer to check the wheel temps but as an anecdotal note, I didn't notice any heat. I did get to try out both the heater and fresh air systems. I do have to admit this car's seats are not as comfortable as the ones in my Locost. That, and the fact that I've not got many miles on it to build my confidence, I doubt this car will be travelling with me to the Gathering. :BH: I will likely take my DD and ride at the back of the group to assist with any breakdowns.

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