LocostUSA.com

I would use a guibo in one of the U joint positions to provide some cushion and take stress off the clutch basket.

_________________
Honey anyone?

MV8, I agree that 3 deg is the max recommended for up to ~5000RPM. One might also mention that a minimum of ~ 1 deg is also recommended to get some motion to reduce wear. Both are total operating deg, not just in a single view.

Freezing14, a center bearing is necessary as you have determined. You should now be good for >8000 RPM shaft speed. I assume that the trans is capable of the speeds you are planning without overheating and premature wear.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

How nice- a Berkeley Brother has joined up!

Hi Freezing.. glad you're here documenting this tiny build.. You have saved yourself a bunch of work by sourcing the ATV parts for sure..

In the end, what will the car be used for? Grocery getter? Autocross? Cars and Coffee? That will surely help determine what needs more/less consideration in the planning/fabbing process..

Love where this is going so far.. I offer only a few suggestions if you're not already married to a final outcome.. The first one is to get that rear DS angle down to about 1 or 2 degrees max.. I wonder if you can rework your rear frame section a bit and drop the diff down to floor level to help achieve this? As it sits, I believe it's going to give you a nightmare vibration.... having said that- maybe just keep it as-is and put it in service and test it.. who knows. maybe it will be fine?

The only other thing I can offer has already been mentioned, and that's to fab a Guibo/Cush Drive into your drivetrain.. My last BEC I skipped this crucial piece, and in my street application, I don't think my bike tranny would have lived if I didn't go back, redesign the whole damn thing, and install the BMW-sourced Guibo into the driveshaft.. it made an unbelievable difference in reducing driveline shock while shifting.. ATVs can get away without a Cush Drive as the're on soft terrain and the tires/poor traction take it up, but on the street, there's got to be some give somewhere...

So glad you're documenting this here.. these are the coolest little cars, and to be truly used and enjoyed, they need clever engineering to be repowered for use on our larger, faster roads (here in the states anyway).. Please keep documenting what you've done and where the project takes you ..

If you need parts for your Berk, Kevin Kalman is in the states and he is a great help.. (BTW, where are you located?).. otherwise, if you don't already know of them, the Berkeley Enthusiast Club (BEC) is in England, and they too are of tremendous help for the odd bits or info you might need.. They value a stock Berkeley, but they also understand the desire/need to mod them too..

--ccrunner

_________________
Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

Not sure what you are trying to say, Chuck.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8, almost every example of u-joint angles on the interweb is shown from the side view. In many of our builds, the engine/diff are not only offset in a typical fashion but also offset when viewed from above. In such a consideration, the total operating angle of the u-joints is not A(side view) + B(top view) as one might think, but (A^2 + B^2)^.5 This combined angle should be <3 and >1

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Actually there is nothing to combine. It is one angle but I'm still curious as to why you are telling me this.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

A) I agree that there is but one angle. However, that one angle is not represented accurately in either view. That is where the (A^2 + B^2)^.5 comes into play. For example, if one sees 3 deg angle in the horizontal view, one may think they are in a safe operating area. IF there could be simultaneously another 3 deg offset as viewed from above, one might think they still have a safe design, since both views show a safe 3 degrees. However, in that case, the "one angle" that the u-joint actually operating at is 4.24 degrees. In "most" designs the engine and diff are in perfect alignment when viewed from above. In such cases that angle is zero. Then, the side view angle is the only one to consider. When there is an offset as seen from above, as some designs I've seen on this site are, usually on BEC implementations, one must use both side and top view angles to calculate the true operating angle.

b) I'm not telling "you". I am trying to share this with the many builders who may read this discussion.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Oh, I see what you are saying now. that is a great tip! Hard to measure diagonally with a level!

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Prezactly!

Now back to our regular programming.....

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

It just occurred to me that the scissor style digital protractor is perfect for finding the total angle.
1) Put a scissor leg against the yoke flange rotated toward the outside corner/greatest angle.
2) Rotate the drive shaft back and forth to find the point where the scissor on the driveshaft creates no gap to the tube if rotated either way.
3) Place the scissor leg without the gauge on a (previously measured to be) horizontal surface.
4) Hit the button to check the angle on the leg with the gauge.

If the flange od and the driveshaft tube od differ, make a shim or measure to keep the leg over the smaller od parallel.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

to answer other question : I intend to have something close in performance feel to a T-rex trike . I have a BMW isetta and speed is 100% correlated to driving feel , an isetta at 40 mph is definitely a handful and the curves are scary . I want to be able to keep up with traffic on a country road and may be pass a car , kinda like a canyon carver .

I like the giubo idea or some sort of driveline buffer , but there is so little space , we will see , as I will try to incorporate one in the redesign

well thank to MV8 , and the research I did afterward , I avoided a critical design flaw in the early stages of design.

found this very interesting video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY

so simple and yet so informative . so I have to redesign the reach power transfer .

so as I cant move the diff any more to the rear , I either cut the torque tube and fit the mini drive shaft ( see below ) or use some sort of sprocket , I spent most of my week end staring at it and taking measurements and have yet to come up with a solution , of cost/ time / how much its gonna end up in the cabin

more to follow

ok while I am redesigning the power to the diff , lets add other stuff done
we can see bits of the rear suspension from the rear end picture , so now the details .
I used the rear hubs of the ATV , the one issue here was that because the original rear end had a lock diff , there was only one hub with the bracket for the caliper , and now that I used an open diff , I need to have bracket on both side . luckily the hubs with the bracket has 2 sets of tabs ( see picture ) one for the main caliper and one designed to hold the parking brake of the ATV ( yes parking brake ) . so I bought an other unit identical from an other bike so now both hubs has a bracket for the hydraulic caliper and one for the parking brake , 2 bird , one stone . note the caliper will go to the front of the hub

ok so I have hubs and a nice set of dual a arms for the rear suspension but what about the shocks .
for that project , I bought a pack of 2 motorcycle , a pair of XJ750, one on the road and a unfinished bobber project .
on the Berkeley , both the front and rear shock are the same , same length , same diameter and same spring . OMG they look almost the same as the one on the rear of the motorcycle , so I use my shop press and the scale from in the house ( shhh don't tell the wife ) and did a few compression test , in vs lbs and the bike one are actually about 30% stiffer and on top of that they have a preload . , that will hopefully accommodate for the bit of increased weight

so I designed something that would allow the shock to stay near the original location of the car to maintain the little bit of the 2 cubic foot of trunk

ok its all tacked up let see what it feels like on the ground .
disregards the wheels , that's an other project but I needed to do a test .
turn out , with me standing on it on the low setting , it goes down about 1 inch ( I am 250 lbs ) so far so good , so about some jumping , well I did not manage to hit the bump stop , so far so good , travel with me jumping is about 3 inch , looks like we have a winner

Looking good. I guess you are essentially copying the susp geo of the atv.
What model atv are you using as donor, particularly the open diff?

As an Isetta owner, you'd probably enjoy my tour of Bruce Weiner's microcar museum:

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12