LocostUSA.com

I just did some measuring and I can see exactly what’s going to happen with the steering rack. The pan has plenty of room over the K frame. From the front of the pan to the back of the head I’m measuring 21-1/2” to clear. From the back of the rack to the front of the firewall is 20”. The harmonic balancer and pulley will sit over the rack but the pan hits. The elevation difference from the bottom
Of the K frame to the top of the rack is 5”. Unless 2” of the front of the pan can be notched the firewall gets cut. I can see it.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

I'd swap sides on the tie rod arms on the spindles to flip the tie rods to the bottom and lower the rack with the LCAs limiting how far. Clearance the subframe for the pinion shaft.

If you don't need to completely cut out the center, leave the bottom plate and add some bracing similar to what I've described.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

You can do all that and not screw up any geometry? That would be really cool

_________________
Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Better to cut the firewall imho. Lowering the rack (if necessary) would affect bump steer. Better or worse depends on how much there is to begin with. It may actually have less bump steer if the tie rods are left stock and just the rack is lowered. New arms could be made for something in between flipped and stock height.

I'll measure a few of my 5.0ls to compare length past the pan front edge.

EDIT: Found to be about six inches from the front pan edge to the front pulley edge with dual K6 flat belt pulleys (late 80s). A single vee belt could shave about 1.25-1.5 off. Not really worth it. Better to make it work as-is.

You may want to offset the brake pedal pad outboard on the arm and use a thinner throttle pedal for tunnel clearance while offsetting the engine and trans to the right an inch.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Time for a V6 I thinks

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

HA,HA,HA, NEVER!

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Well and here we are test fitting and there’s a lot of sheet metal that needs to go everything highlighted in the black needs to be cut out. To get access to the steering rack his house go back about 3 inches which will delete the heater duct as well in the center

_________________
Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Looks like you will need to lose the air duct and considerable foot well space on both sides to get it behind the rack and under the bonnet. All due to the rack location. The steering arm flip and lowered rack are looking better.

It is possible to build a U-shaped rack adapter with offset ends based on a traditional rack with no modification or welding on the rack or bending load on the rack from the cantilever. This would keep the inner balls in the original location while lowering the rack as needed. The critical part is clearance to the engine at full lock and keeping the linear bush for the adapter clean with a gaiter/boot.

If you are determined to have a v8 that will clear the bonnet and stock rack location, consider something more compact like the ls4 (smaller bell, shorter accessory), rover/buick, or sbc. I’d like to see a LA 340 mopar or magnum but they are a little bigger and longer than everything else. Not sure about the late model 5.7l hemi engine. The buick 3.8 rwd (grand national type) and 3800 fwd type are both based on the rover/buick v8 and would be an easier fit.

This fellow could have fit the 4.3l vortec without the extra butchery.
https://barnfinds.com/parts-or-project-1974-mgb-v6/

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I talked to my British guru yesterday about that rack lowering and he said he’s seen it done. He said in the 70’s racers or conversion guys would lower the racks on aluminum blocks that had sliders cut in them and they were bolted to the face of the K. This will take me a while to figure out. I have the suspension torn apart for rebuilding and powder coating the A arms. Once that’s back together I can search out this avenue.
I know the chevy is smaller and shorter. Although all the explorer front end hardware I found out last night is what I need it’s all short. I can’t do Chevy. I have some real problems with that company. How it’s still around is beyond me.
The material out of the footwells looks to be 3” The side wings on the bell, at the starter location and opposite side are the killer in this. If they were not as wide it would go right it. Keeping it right to the heater box is the goal. I don’t want to loose that, I’ve seen pre-74 with heaters so it should be doable. I pulled the pan yesterday too. 1/4” is all there is between the pan and bottom of the pump. Would be nice to save space there too. Elevation wise we’re not hurting the hood will close with the intake, carb and air cleaner.

_________________
Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

The guys on MGEXP often use the “Fastcars” front suspension for the conversions. You might look at the Fastcars web site to see how they clear the rack

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Thom

Thom, Happy thanksgiving!! Best idea I’ve heard yet. So I did. It’s the same principle as building a 7 right? Keep the inner tie rod ends inline with the A arm pivot and the push rods parallel with the ground. I have an idea to mount this if the elevations work out. Thanks, it may not be as daunting of a task

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Also, if by Christmas time you still do not have a set of heads for mock up purposes, I have a spare set of 5.0 heads I can bring to Appleton area and we can meet for you to grab for your use. They are just stock '90 5.0 HO heads (but very low miles- maybe a few thou on them) that I replace with TFS alum heads on my Shelby Cobra replica. Also have a complete EFI system that came off of the same motor.

Thom

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Thom

Thanks a lot. I will let you know. I’m seriously considering the foam block. I can keep it in the car and rotate on the rotisserie and build the car from there. It would be so nice not laying on the ground to build the exhaust.

_________________
Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Just an fyi! An undervalued underdog.

92-97 dodge 3.9l magnum. 180 hp, around 225 ft/lbs stock with room to improve those numbers with a little rotary file work, roller cam regrind, and necessary headers for an mgb install. To get the height down, the TB can be moved with a fabbed adapter tube on top or machined to accept a TB on the front and cap the top. Another option is to use a thin foam mesh filter on top.

The magnum intake is a plenum at the bottom with the runner openings at the top near the TB hole and an access plate so easy to mod. It could also be cut to fit a flat plate top trimming the runners as needed for whatever height is required.

Huge alt/ac brkt can be removed for a fabbed driverside alt brkt and a raised tensioner on the pax side for the reverse rotation pump.

Uses AX15 5 spd. EGR was dropped 97-03 with slightly smaller exhaust valves and more restrictive manifolds for 175hp.

Not enough power? The magnum 5.2 and 5.9 are easy swaps if you have the room.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The problem with the 6cyl’s is they don’t sound good. They sound like tractors so you really need to have good mufflers on them. All these Stalkers with the blown 3800’s in them I never thought sounded good. I’d take a 4cyl first.
I pretty much decided to keep what I have for a plan and buy a mock up block. Keeping this thing on the rotisserie will be so much easier in the long run. The only overhead I’ll have to do is the rear end set up.

_________________
Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782