LocostUSA.com

A knotted wire wheel is where it's at for stripping undercoating. I went from this:



to this (etch primed):



In about an hour.

It now looks like this though:



I tried to find the stripping discs at my local tool supplier, but no luck. I'm I correct in assuming they're just larger versions of the 3M roloc conditioning discs?

I didn't use them on the undercoating. I spent hours/days with a torch, putty knife and mineral spirits to remove the undercoating. I would imagine that these would probably gum up in that application. My process left most of the pink primer on my car. The strip disc made quick work out of removing 2 layers of paint and primer over the factory paint and primer.

They are not like the 3M conditioning discs, which are similar to scotch-Brite pads. These discs are "very" aggressive on paint and bondo yet at the same time, gentile to the steel.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Personally, having tried both on the undercoating used on MGs (back in the day) I have found a MAP/propane torch and a scraper works best when trying to to remove it. Then use one of these to clean up any rust or paint left over. Pictures are of my recent adventure in removing the undercoating from my ‘57 MGA in the area just above and in front of the gas tank.
Regards,
Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

That looks great. That’s the area I tried the wire wheel and poof gone.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Well I have nothing to loose. I’m planning on rolling it out side to blow it off on the rotisserie. I should be ok with what I have for structure so far? Assuming the floors are welded in. I don’t need all of the outer sills put together do I?

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

I would think that as long as you have both side sills tied to their front and rear points you should be good. If I recall correctly your inside sills (the ones covered by carpeting or the factory rubber covering) are in good shape now. When I did all the sill work, I welded in a tie between the A and B pillars before doing any work. Then I worked on one side to completion, then the other side. Once both sides were repaired, I removed those br@cketz. The wheels on my rotisserie are steel and maybe 3" in diameter. They would not roll easily over any imperfections. YMMV.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I just bought 4” rubber wheels 2 with brakes,yesterday. I have an incline. It is all tight and the hatch I’ll pull off anyway. Doors will stay on for a while yet. I thought it would be ok too. Let her rip!! Thanks Chuck for the valued input.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Floor pans welded in and 98% on the rotisserie. The front support bearing I have to cut out yet.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Mile stone! So nice to have it mobile.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Nice. Have you taken it for a full spin? How does it move without a tie from upright to upright?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

It moves super easy. But my Jack point doesn’t work worth a [PooPoo]. So I had to jack it by the body and step it up on wood. It’s 36” so it will go 90 with out any problem. It will work for what I want out of it. I have some angle I may tie them together.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Steve that is a very good idea, I did that with just a stick of 1" sq tube. Makes a world of difference when you want to move the rotisserie around the shop. You won't regret it

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Mother load!! TR6 wheels, early dash(that fits like [PooPoo]) tail lights, throttle pedal and early steering column and hub. The dash will take some ingenuity and YouTubing. I thought it may be close. Nope, not even close. Nonetheless cool stuff.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

So you decided on the TR-6 wheels after all? I like them on the MGB.

That steel dash looks pretty complete. Fitting that dash is not as bad as you think, so long as the windshield is not in place. You can do it. If you need any ideas, I can give you some.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I managed to get a dashtop and windscreen surround a year or so ago for a project that never materialized. So, the dashtop was removed from the piece and sliced n diced to fit.

Step one was removing the flange of the existing dash mount (angled at 45ish degrees), shown here in original form:


Next was trimming the metal dash top piece and drilling out some spot welds to slide it over the now cut away dash mount:


It was moved around until I was happy with the fit and it lined up the same as the 65 B that it shares the garage with, then marked and trimmed:


I dont have a pic of it fully welded, but it was a very long tig weld. I left the steering column as stock for the 71 which required removing the column mount on the back of the metal dash, and trimming of some brackets on the existing column, but it means I can retain the wiper switch and signal switch. Though this does mean I'll need to fabricate a cowl.




The center console was ordered from Moss Europe, which fits the 4 sync tunnel, but it's a fiberglass piece so not quite as nice (in my mind) as the original plastic one.