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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: October 20, 2021, 7:24 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Sure Chuck. You made two general claims as fact that are not true for everybody:
1) "If the outcome of leaf springs is not to your liking, the job to fix it again is just as large."
2) "Without heat treating, bending leaf springs in a press is not a long term solution, they will bend further sooner than later."

1A) It’s not a light switch. Aspects can be adjusted like any suspension. The only difference in geometry is the front eye being slightly further forward and the leafs are wider. The rate is adjustable. The torque reaction is adjustable.

2A) The difference seems to be that I have experience with re-arcing but your argument is based on an opinion poll that was inconclusive. It sounds like everyone you read about had a different experience, which should tell you that the details are important. Not all leafs are the same in alloy, temper, or have design elements that ensure long life by preventing fatigue failure. Was the arc increased or decreased? Was it a little or a lot? The tension side is sometimes shot peened to improve durability. Heavy damping or riding around on blown shocks? Off-roading or Sunday driver? Generalization doesn’t work. Too many variables.

I’m not convinced a de-arc would be necessary when using the jeep leafs, just fewer leafs for the jeep stack to bend the same distance or less than normal with a lighter load.

Steve, for the sake of discussion, the front eye should be an inch or more lower than the rear eye. This reduces roll steer toe-out of the outside wheel and lowers the roll center.


If you were to hook up springs to the points right now that would be true. The front are lower by a few inches. I never measured it but they have to be 5 inches lower at least

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: October 20, 2021, 10:29 pm 
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Had some time today at work and notched the K member for the oil pan. Made some templates for the patch. I have to clean it up and prime.


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: October 21, 2021, 9:17 am 
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Steve
You are taking a lot of section out of that crossmember. I would suggest that you add reinforcements on the front and rear sides of the center section, plus if possible on the inside surfaces. That crossmember carries most of the front torsional and suspension loads.
Davew


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: October 21, 2021, 8:29 pm 
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davew wrote:
Steve
You are taking a lot of section out of that crossmember. I would suggest that you add reinforcements on the front and rear sides of the center section, plus if possible on the inside surfaces. That crossmember carries most of the front torsional and suspension loads.
Davew

Hi Dave, The pan is 9” wide and needs about 2-1/2”. This is 11 x 3. Looks big but from others before me pretty typical. It will be going back together with 1/8” carbon. I think the cut out metal was 14ga.

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 6, 2021, 4:56 pm 
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Mouse holes are closed up. Did a lot of cleaning up today besides these two pillars. So close to ending the metal cut outs. I think the front suspension rebuild is going to be the next thing to tackle. Get that hanging and I can set and engine. I’m really hoping I don’t have to cut out for that.


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 10:58 am 
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I almost hate to post these because it looks like hell,LOL, but it’s part of the process. The 4 bar stiffeners are definitely a work in progress. The folded in section will get welded and sanded down, I’ll punch holes in the upper flap and plug weld it. Everything here gets fully welded. I also have to make bushings or weld in some filler to the inside to take up about 1-1/4” worth of space. So the bar end has a tight fit. The leaf pocket is pretty big.


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 2:16 pm 
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I thought you cut out the front eye mounts? I guess that is .050” sheet? You could run a strip of 1.5 or 2 inch x1/8 on the outside of each eye flange to the xmember on each flange, then trim a 2 or 2.5 inch x1/8 strip to connect them, with generous drain holes and an open rear. No need to weld it to the thin floor pan, just at the crossmember and thicker metal at the eye structure. May need longer eye bolts due to the extra 1/4 inch of steel being clamped.

Just an idea. :cheers:


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Tundra mgb eye mod.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 3:20 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I thought you cut out the front eye mounts? I guess that is .050” sheet? You could run a strip of 1.5 or 2 inch x1/8 on the outside of each eye flange to the xmember on each flange, then trim a 2 or 2.5 inch x1/8 strip to connect them, with generous drain holes and an open rear. No need to weld it to the thin floor pan, just at the crossmember and thicker metal at the eye structure. May need longer eye bolts due to the extra 1/4 inch of steel being clamped.

Just an idea. :cheers:

Hey MV8 how are you? I took out the rear eyelets.

So I’ve been thinking of something like this. I was looking at using some thicker metal somewhere. The car I saw this on had it welded tight all around. Lots of tacks but then sewed up tight and welded to the eyelets all around. This is 18ga. The inside of the eyelets I was thinking of welding in 1/4”. Then making spacers to center the bar. The floor is 18ga as well. Shouldn’t it all be integrated?

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 4:00 pm 
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Thanks for asking. I'm doing great all around here in the South, where the beer flows like wine. :shock:

Sure, fully welded is stronger. I just don't think it is necessary with 1/8th but definitely would with .0478/18ga. I'd flange the edge against the pan versus butting the edge.

Another nice thing about three pieces is easier to fit and weld each piece, they pieces don't need to be parallel so you can distribute the load better if you want (my drawing does not), and it is easy to weld the outside corners of the third piece. The 1/8 with hold up to road hazards and corrosion better too.

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 4:13 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Thanks for asking. I'm doing great all around here in the South, where the beer flows like wine. :shock:

Sure, fully welded is stronger. I just don't think it is necessary with 1/8th but definitely would with .0478/18ga. I'd flange the edge against the pan versus butting the edge.

Another nice thing about three pieces is easier to fit and weld each piece, they pieces don't need to be parallel so you can distribute the load better if you want (my drawing does not), and it is easy to weld the outside corners of the third piece. The 1/8 with hold up to road hazards and corrosion better too.

Thats true. I thought about the flange this morning when I started this. I’d have to either cut a new one or mate on a flange to this and plug weld it.

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 11, 2021, 9:44 pm 
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Got a notch welded up. I put some epoxy primer on it tonight, wow that stuff is an experience. No more of that until summer when the door can be open, whew!! I’ll paint on some enamel and it will be fine. The A arms I have the autos students pulling them apart and inspecting things. They looked at the shocks and didn’t believe me the Armstrong’s were shocks,lol.


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 14, 2021, 3:12 pm 
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One fully done, plus a pile of extra welding of seams and tying in. Some grinding and blending to do so the rod ends will turn right. Ran out of gas for the welder too. On to the next one


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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 14, 2021, 4:56 pm 
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Looking good Steve!

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 14, 2021, 6:35 pm 
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BostonWill wrote:
Looking good Steve!

Thanks, it’s defiantly a lot different process than a scratch build.

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 Post subject: Re: MG GT V8
PostPosted: November 21, 2021, 4:58 pm 
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Second re-enforcement done. I decided to use flux core on this since I was too lazy to get a new tank of gas. Doesn’t it look like garbage? I have a couple spots to finish when I get the tank, flux core just doesn’t fill a gap like hard wire does and it burns too hot foe this thinner metal. Now the clean up is horrendous.
I did a test fit on the K member. It doesn’t fit, lol. The inside of the K frame the intersects the frame of the car is too narrow. 20-5/16 on the K and 21-1/4 on the outside of the frame of the car. One thought I had is to slice the middle of the K to allow the shock towers to spread open and bolt it then weld it.


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8DF2760F-4441-4951-8BC0-29F08B68D256.jpeg
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