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I believe the [Triumph] 1500 all have a mech pump. The earlier Spridgets used an elec pump.
Some good recommendations on the Midget forum for switching to a Facet elec pump.

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1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Stranded: Part 2
Drove the Midget to work on Friday, uneventful drive up, temps wonderfully in the mid 70s
Drove 99% home without issue. About 2 miles from home, got caught by a couple consecutive lights. Engine temps were fine, ambient was mid 90s. Perfect storm of combination to lead to enough engine bay heat to overheat the fuel & result in the same shutdown condition as before. Luckily I had enough momentum to coast into a parking lot & had a store let me chill in their AC while she cooled down.
Was hot enough, that I could see the fuel bubbling in the fuel filter.

So, she's grounded until I can get this sorted.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Let's just get right to the source of the issue and fix this once and for all: It's time to leave Texas

I can make that joke because I did my time in San Antonio, a city that taxed me and my cars at every turn with the region's oppressive heat.. I miss the people of Texas, but I do not miss the climate- woof!

..So all kidding aside, please post up once you find the culprit and you get a handle on things.. it's just about now you should be coming into some nice convertible weather, so hopefully the fix is easy and quick

--ccrunner

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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

From responses on the MG forum, converting from the mechanical cam-driven fuel pump, to an electric pump, located near the tank, should be a big step to resolving the issue.
Also gives me a spot to tap a PCV in the blockoff plate for the old pump, to a catch can, to relieve some of the crankcase pressure, since the Weber DGV doesn't pull enough vacuum & tend to lead to some oil leakage.

I imagine, the mech pump, being bolted to the block, heatsinks a bit & heats the fuel en route to the carb

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

I'd concur that the mechanical fuel pump is the likely culprit. Early models of my Fiat had similar issues I believe, which is why my mid generation have an inch thick isolator between the mechanical pump and the block (crank driven) to help keep the heat out. Those that do still have issues, normally convert to a electronic pump near the tank with much success, just like the later year ones had standard.

It's an easy plumbing job to add an electric inline with a switch and bypass the mechanical to test it out if you don't want to fully commit to a clean install until you're sure that's the root cause.

[quote="JAMADOR"]Really hated having to sell the Rotus when we moved, but just didn't have anywhere to put it where it wasn't going to rot away before I could work on it.

a rotary powered 7-esque car or a REAL Rotus 7 (Curtis Toyota built 50-90 cars in the later 80s-early 90s called a Rotus, and yes it was a 4+4+2 Lotus 7 clone, but right off a dealer lot in Frederick MD

I own #93... and am on the hunt for contacts to ALL real Rotus 7 owners
tia...if not ignore this old geezer.

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ptegler
http://www.teglerizer.com
https://www.youtube.com/@paultegler/videos

Rotary 7, not a branded Rotus.
Didn't realize there was an actual series called a Rotus, just amalgamated Rotary + Lotus

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

She lives again.
I put a hurt on the battery the last time it stranded me [lots of cranking to prime the fuel system] & she refused to start. Even with a full charge it went to very slow cranking.

Put in a new battery, and she fired right up.
Get our for a short drive, local, daughter had girl scouts & dance class so we opted for the Midget.
Ran great, bit of heat soak while parked, but no problems. Cooler temps [mid 70s] definitely helped.

One thing I need to address before another evening/night excursion. The dash illumination is extremely dim. New bulbs will probably make a big improvement, but have also read that the 'cans' can be painted inside to help with light reflection.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Post some pics of your engine bay on the passenger side from above, behind and in front of the header.

From on older pic, it looks like you plumbed the carb directly into the valve cover with a 3/8 hose. This would suck oil out of the valve cover into the intake. This connection on the valve cover should have a pcv inline and a breather elsewhere on the engine (like the filler cap or the block) or have just have a breather on the valve cover port with no connection to the carb or intake. Better yet, connect the valve cover port to a breather tank.

I've painted inside gauges white so the lights are brighter and switched to leds "bulbs" with leds on the end or the sides depending on which way the light needs to shine. The leds are usually polarity sensitive where the bulbs are not.

Take a couple pics of your fuel line routing under the car also.

For heat soak, I suggest a 3/8 inch thick phenolic spacer (you can buy blocks the size of the gasket and drill it to match) and cut a .050" thick steel sheet the length and width of the intake, then drill to match the gasket and paint. The sheet goes on the intake, then the phenolic, then the carb with longer studs or bolts as needed. You could also wrap the header tubes or if you want them to last longer, just use a ceramic insulating sheet across the top of them and attach at the front and rear tubes in four places with 12ga steel fence wire with a couple twists of the ends.

Or, you could just buy the phenolic spacer and another gasket. Not hard to make gaskets with an exacto blade and hole punch set. The gasket material is available in rolls at your local auto parts store.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266030500249?h ... R7S3iaj1Yg

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for all that.
You are correct that the breather is direct fit [to my knowledge] from the rocker cover to the air filter plate. I haven't pulled the [aftermarket] RC to see the setup, I don't believe this has the mesh 'filter' at the breather port like the OE RC does.
Current plan is to put something like a mini K&N there, and run a PCV off the mech fuel pump via a blockoff plate when I convert to an e-pump.

Haven't looked at the undercar fuel line routing, but can see that both the lines to the mech pump run across the top of the trans bellhousing. Supply from the tank come from the back [obviously] and over the trans to the pump. Feed to the carb runs behind the block, resting on top of the bellhousing & over to the fuel filter & carb.

Will look into the spacer/gasket solution. It was mild last night, but I only did a few short jaunts around. Engine temp was around 170* while running & would heat soak up to around 190* while off/parked.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

The current hose connection into the air filter base plate is perfect. My concern was if the hose was connected to a vacuum port on the carb body. If you have excess crankcase pressure spitting into the carb, I would fit an electric pump and run a hose from the fuel pump block off plate like you mentioned, but to the bottom of a remote breather tank mounted higher than the block off plate if possible so it will drain freely back to the engine and leave the upper hose as-is/no pcv. Use a 1/2 inch heater fitting if there is room on the block off plate and oil rated hose. The bigger the hose id, the better it will work.

Note the original intake and carbs come with a steel heat shield sandwiched between them, blocking manifold heat (which is less than header radiated heat) from the fuel hose and carbs. It appears the fuel inlet fitting can be reversed to feed from the head side instead of the fender well side. I'd bend a new steel line from brake tubing, to follow the passenger side of the valve cover then down and around the bell, using cushion clamps. Make one or two clamp mounting tabs that are secured to the head studs with extra nuts for the middle and the rear of the head. The tabs can be 1x2x1/8 strips drilled for the head stud on one end and whatever size the clamp holes will be. The carb heat shield sheet would also block the heat rise to the fuel line. Currently airflow heated by the radiator blows across the header warming it more before reaching the hose. A temp fix can be folding a few layers of aluminum foil into a blanket about three inches wide, to wrap around the rubber hose behind the header. The hose will last longer too. Fire sleeve could be used but now costs about $15 for three feet.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Small chance I may try to add a B to the stable.
Neighbor has what I think is a 67 B that's been parked in his garage under a lot of boxes with the hood up at least since we've been in this house [about 1.5 yrs]

Saw him sitting in the driveway one day with another neighbor & walked over to chat a bit. This was a bit before we bought the Midget.
From what I recall, it ran when it was parked, needs some bodywork [unknown amount] but that he has the body panels needed.
Also has AC [probably R12 & not charged].

Leaving for work this morning & it was parked in his driveway with a cover partially over it.
If it's still outside after work, I may see if he's looking to sell it & if it's priced right, try to get it up to my dad's shop.

Love the Midget for what it is, but something with a bit more space/power and better highway manners would be nice for longer trips.
Keep the Midget for local jaunts & the B for longer trips; sounds foolproof, right?

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

It sounds like it's calling you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

No go
Talked to the owner after work. He had it pushed out to clean up a spill under it. He says he's planning on getting it running again.
It's a 66 B on knockoff wire wheels, needs some cleanup & it'd be a good driver.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

That's too bad. But, you never know. He might change his mind and now he knows you're interested.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886