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The webbing is still in great shape. That's why I never thought much about it until I looked at the date on the tag. The only time they are exposed to UV is when I'm driving. Like toobusy said, they look better than my daily driver. Just wanted to do a gut check with you guys. Thanks.l

I finally got around to fixing my issues with front suspension camber. I had two issues. First off my camber is based off the upper ball joint which is threaded into my upper a-arm. This meant any adjustments required removing the ball joint from the uprights and I was limited to one full rotation which is a relatively large change. The second issue was the threads on one of the ball joints galled when I was adjusting them, effectively locking my camber at 2+ deg. I've just left it that way for years. Not a huge problem but it does effect the wear on my tires. I've addressed all of the major issues so I'm finally getting around to the smaller ones like this. Plus my current tires are pretty well shot so before I put new ones one I'd like to fix it. I've had a design from Staniforth's "Competition Car Suspension" in my head for years (pic below) which should work with my setup. I went about machining my upper a-arm and the new inner sleeve nuts. I now have finer camber adjustment and have reduced my camber down to 1 deg. Not looking forward to putting the car up for the winter but it's been a great year for driving so I can't complain.

Nice, this is also how I think I will build my A-arms, On car adjustable just makes everything so much easier are your more inclined to play with settings since its so easy

Hey everyone, just putting a quick update in. The tail light setup has always bothered me, but I've left it as is for years. While she is up on stands for the winter, I finally got around to at least making a more curved housing for the tail light/turn signals. I also ditched the old GPZ1100 rear turn signals in favor of some smaller aftermarket ones that were on the CBR954 donor. Just shy of 10k miles on the chassis so far. Looking forward to many more. Happy holidays and hope everyone is enjoying their builds past and present.

Instead of a thin nut between the rod end and the a-arm, I would recommend using a tapered wheel nut and taper the a-arm to match. Cut part of the hex off of the wheel nut if needed for clearance. This will give a very rigid connection that is not as subject to loosening.
For the inner adjusting sleeve nut, I used 7075-T6 aluminum rod.
Thanks again for the use of the name

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When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

FWIW, I had no problem adjusting the 5/8" Heim joint I used for an upper with a threaded bung as a welded part of the control arm. My uprights had a threaded stud which the Heim fit over. There is no weight carried by the upper arm. All I had to do was unbolt the Heim and lift it off. The wide tire (205/50r15) just sat there with the full weight of the car on the ground. I originally thought that infinite adjustment was needed. IIRC the math said each 1/2 turn was about 0.125 degrees of camber. I didn't need better adjustment sensitivity than that. With a tie rod end as the upper joint, that adjustment sensitivity would double. Do the math and find out your particular increments based on the upper joints you have. Also see if you can read camber multiple times and get the same reading. If you cannot, then infinite adjustment is a fool's chase.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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I haven't had any issues with the lock nut loosening.

A heim joint would be easier but with my ball joint it's harder to break free from the upright, plus my pullrod setup puts the weight of the car on the upper a-arm not the lower. So it was more work to disassemble half the suspension just to make a camber adjustment. Ive been pretty happy with the improvement.