LocostUSA.com

Just 4 days and 15 posts and I've learned more about starting a build than I could hope for! Thanks everyone!

A civic aluminum radiator seems to be the go to here. easy to mount, small enough and you can get them in 2-3 core depths. plus the inlet outlet are pretty much centered, so they work with most applications.

something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-2-ROW- ... Wb&vxp=mtr

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Tucker

I do a lot of my building on the floor or on a low table. This lets me sit on a roll around stool which is more comfortable. You might want to consider what height you want for your build table as the normal waist high table might not be the best for you. I also have a nice office chair that I can roll around in and it comes in handy when I get distracted by races on the TV.

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My car viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16434
1930s Style Sports Car viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16888

I used the same radiator with my rotary engine. With a bit of massaging, you can fit a 14 inch fan. The Civic radiator and fan do a wonderful job of cooling the heat beast. Plan on mounting the fan in front of the radiator for a slightly easier fit inside the nosecone.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Well, it's good to have you here!

As far as the radiator is concerned, I (and others I know) have gone with Ebay-sourced welded aluminum 90's Civic radiators. They're well built (at least, the one's I've seen are - mine arrived polished like a mirror!!), come with a matching fan, have enough cooling for up to V-8's (full, double-row cooling), and...they're CHEAP! Most importantly, though, is that they fit inside a standard book (or larger) nose.

Here's an example (literally, picked at random from the first page that popped up) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-ALUMINUM-2 ... Ty&vxp=mtr

That one's only $60 (I'm sure there are cheaper ones there, too) and you can probably find one with free shipping.

** Wow! Rx7locost beat me to the response - we must have been typing at the same time! Funny, we both had the same advice. We are GOOD!!

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

So what does that make me?

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Tucker

Well...quicker than me, that's for sure!!

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

Sorry I misread the tone of your post.... My bad.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

No big deal, it is hard to read someone's intent over the internet. I am really sorry for the confusion.

Not if I keep trying to figure out why my sketchup keeps switching unit values from metric to sae!

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Tucker

It's trying to protect you from yourself and putting it back into proper values.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Ding! I didn't chime in earlier 'cause dolomite_supafly already called me, and we chatted about his various options and opportunities. However......this being the case, I heartily recommend you spend your 30 minutes a day doing something besides building a nose. Seriously, and I'm sure other nose builders will back me up on this, it will save you 40+ hours of work, which translates to months at .5 hrs/day

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

A Ranger axle with a swap to disc brakes *is* a Mustang SN95 axle, btw. Or vice versa.

V6 Mustangs 94-13 had 7.5, V8 had 8.8
Rangers had 7.5 except the FX4 and 4.0, which granted, is quite a few. Actually later ones had rear Discs, too. Perhaps the last 18 months of production or so.

I think the 8.8 is simply too heavy.
I am not a huge fan of the 7.5, tbh.

I went with a 1985 Toyota 2wd pickup axle (7.5), Audi calipers, and a slightly modified brake rotor.

So my plan to use a Ranger axle with the long tube shortened probably will not work. Having an axle that is 53" wide with a body that is 46" wide does not leave a lot of room for wheels. I could do a book build which is 42" wide but I am worried things will be

My thoughts are the factory Mustang wheels I plan on using have a 5.5" backspacing. An Explorer rear end is 59.5" wide. If I subtract the 11" for the backspacing on the wheels that leaves 48.5" and that will give me about a perfect clearance on a 46" wide body. And if I want to run a little wider rim I can use spacers.

Now that I am pretty close to the width using a IRS from a mid 90's Thunderbird is another option. It is 60" wide so that would let me use a little wider tire in the rear.

Not quite. The tire sidewall protrudes beyond the rim lip and the rim lip thickness is not included in your back space.

I have an early 90s explorer rear with 15x10 rims with only 5" bs and 295-50-15 tires. They measure slightly less than 48 inches between the tires.

The suspension links move inboard and outboard as the axle moves up and down, and they normally fit between the body and the tire sidewall.

As for wider rims, wider doesn't necessarily mean more back space.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12