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PostPosted: January 3, 2012, 8:30 pm 
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Location: Baton Rouge
from another board:
Quote:

Let me start this by saying that cars like this are never ending projects. There will always be that 'one more thing' to do, fix, upgrade, etc. Its also worthy to note that different people will prioritize different things. I like to go fast around a turn, so that is more important to me than.... say a parking brake or a radio. I'm in no way being critical of the designer or builder of the prototype, I'm just making it my own. I hope that I can help make the future cars better as well.

That said, let get on with it!

When I picked up the car it had what I consider significant issues for a car I was planning on flogging the everliving crap out of. The three most serious were the push-pull type throttle cable without kickback accelerator pedal to match and it was too low/not sprung stiff enough. The engine was also pinging from bad/low octane fuel or incorrect timing.

I ordered a lokar throttle cable 10' long and fabbed up a little bracket. This was a simple enough job.
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Pook had some springs he sent me (THANKS!). went from 225R 200F to 275R 225F. This has mostly addressed the ride height issue. While I was at it, I weighed the car. Half tank of gas, no windshield, no wing.

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And corner balanced it...
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got that to work with three of the adjusters maxed out. So r1's are an option. I have way more stuff to do before I need those last 2% from the perfect shock, so these will do just fine for now.

While the lid was off i attempted to relocate the blinker to a more comfortable position.

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Better, but still in the way a little.


So....1500 lbs. Not bad, but its a bit porky for what it is IMHO. Fortunately, there is some very low hanging fruit.
1. Battery is a neverstart from walmart. Braille anyone?
2. Stereo. Cant hear it at anything other than idle with a helmet on anyway. This will also solve my problem of not having a glove box for license, registration, insurance, and wallet, keys etc.
3. Wheels and tires are 40lbs a piece. DOT-R's should be good for 5-10 lb per corner.

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Other stuff I need to do:
Had a brake light go out, must investigate.
Continue to tweak on motor/carbs
parking brake
MSD 6al ignition/revlimiter
fix cv joint grease leak
stiffer throttle pedal/throttle stop (i've bent the pedal twice)

now.... racing pron from me driving how it was intended (or not with all that facing the wrong direction business!)

Car is awesome, and as I refine the setup it will only get faster. Even with it being my first time out, setup being 'eye balled' in, and crap tires I was ~0.1 seconds off FTD. It was freaking AWESOME.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poDi8NxMiww

-Brad



Since then I've been to the dyno...77 corrected hp. Got a compression tester, ~80lbs on all 4 cylinders, so the lump has to come out for more diagnostics. Soon...

I broke a CV as well, these are weak t1 parts never meat for these torque levels. I am in process of retro fitting (and getting made by the good folks at valley vw) 100mm flanges on the outputs so i can use high flex, high strength EMPI CV's. I'll need to run a compact (aero) boot on the outer joint.


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Here we can see the wild cheery picker in its natural environment preparing to pounce on its next victim. It's spotted mostly around cars that are low on power, have windows where they should not, or have been rendered immobile.

Oddly enough, it usually leaves then better off than when they were when initially spotted, right before it retreats back into storage.

Hope to have all this done before the next payment (that i made today) is due.
-Brad

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PostPosted: January 8, 2012, 8:17 pm 
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Location: Baton Rouge
Well, its apart....

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Looks like way too much deck height. 2.0l crank and vw rods leaves the problem to pistons. supposed to be ~0.060 inches, more like 0.162 inches. :run:

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How it sits. Going to get on the horn tuesday to try and get some correct pistons on the way.

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PostPosted: January 10, 2012, 7:42 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Newcastle Brown Ale... Good assembly lube. 8)


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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 1:30 am 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Newcastle Brown Ale... Good assembly lube. 8)


indeed.

update: Heads should work, pistons are correct, stroke is correct, so are the rods. The jugs have to be different, so I got a set on the way. If they are not, I'll have to get the jugs trimmed from the bottom a bit.

Axles have been a headache. With some luck the engine and the upgraded axles should be ready to go in about the same time: this weekend.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 11:02 am 
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Location: Willow Grove Pa.
Have you considered the porsche 944 CVs and axles?. Not sure what you are using for stubs but they are a direct fit in type1 trailing arms.
there is some good info here
http://blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CV ... ts_101.htm

Dave


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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 11:16 am 
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Location: Baton Rouge
DWP wrote:
Have you considered the porsche 944 CVs and axles?. Not sure what you are using for stubs but they are a direct fit in type1 trailing arms.
there is some good info here
http://blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CV ... ts_101.htm

Dave

no, i think the spline count on the axles is different.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 11:26 am 
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Location: Willow Grove Pa.
If you are using VW type1 axles the splines are the same as 944 porsche, and VWBus. The CV's are bigger and a lot better. This is the same set up the VW off road, baja guys are using.
The splines for a porsche 930 and 914 are different than a vw
What type trans are you using in the car?
Dave


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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 11:41 am 
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Location: Baton Rouge
DWP wrote:
If you are using VW type1 axles the splines are the same as 944 porsche, and VWBus. The CV's are bigger and a lot better. This is the same set up the VW off road, baja guys are using.
The splines for a porsche 930 and 914 are different than a vw
What type trans are you using in the car?
Dave


That's the thing, its a 901 transmission for a 914. Thanks for tying to help though.

Any thoughts on why my engine is weird?, lol.


Update2: jugs came in late last night, and what you know, they are the same as what i have. off to the machine shop then. Need to cc my heads and figure out how much to cut off the things.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 12:07 pm 
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Just to give you some ideas take a look around here
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showth ... 173&page=2

If you can give me some info on the motor I will see if I can help. My experience is mostly type1, except my street rail with a 914 to a bus trans. my neighbor is the 914 nut.
Dave

Not sure if you are aware but there is a lot of help and info over on TheSamba.com

Dave


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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 12:33 pm 
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Location: Baton Rouge
DWP wrote:
Just to give you some ideas take a look around here
http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showth ... 173&page=2

If you can give me some info on the motor I will see if I can help. My experience is mostly type1, except my street rail with a 914 to a bus trans. my neighbor is the 914 nut.
Dave

Not sure if you are aware but there is a lot of help and info over on TheSamba.com

Dave


sure why not? good to get yet another opinion.

Case is an EA (so 1.7) machined for 103 kit
heads... oval port 4 stud fly cut for
103mm pistons and cylinders from AA pistons. 24mm wrist pin.
71mm stroke crank, measured by me with a piston in a cylinder. pretty sure its 2.0l journals
Rods have vw cast into them and look to be stock 2.0l units.

Survey says this all should go together correctly. :BH:

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 12:47 pm 
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Maybe the cylinders allow for a longer stroke on some of the bigger engines? Are they actual VW or aftermarket? This is the fun of blue printing. It will all be right when you're done.

Hmm, is this the right time to put in a stroker crank? How much would that cost compared to machining your cylinders...

When did VW make a 2L version, is that what was in the 914? Sorry so many many questions... :)

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 1:07 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
Maybe the cylinders allow for a longer stroke on some of the bigger engines? Are they actual VW or aftermarket? This is the fun of blue printing. It will all be right when you're done.

Hmm, is this the right time to put in a stroker crank? How much would that cost compared to machining your cylinders...

When did VW make a 2L version, is that what was in the 914? Sorry so many many questions... :)


1. maybe, but the manufacture says its for a 71mm stroke. Aftermarket, VW never made anything bigger than 96 i think.
2. 500 bucks plus splitting the case, potential clearance issues with camshafts. Not stuff I am prepared to deal with ATM.
3. The 2.0l t4 came in the 914, and maybe some buses although the 914 heads are a unique animal, and still command quite a premium.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 1:26 pm 
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A short term fix for the Deck height would be to add shims
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/stor ... hp?cat=276

Another idea depending on your needs is to keep a watch on the porsche forums for a 1.7. Most if not all of the 914 owners upgrade to 2.0
You can get running 1.7s cheep. I am still amazed with the price difference between the porsche heads and type1 to type4 VW stuff.
Dave

Sorry had the deck height backwards


Last edited by DWP on January 25, 2012, 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 25, 2012, 1:34 pm 
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Location: Baton Rouge
DWP wrote:
A short term fix for the Deck height would be to add shims
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/stor ... hp?cat=276

Another idea depending on your needs is to keep a watch on the porsche forums for a 1.7. Most if not all of the 914 owners upgrade to 2.0
You can get running 1.7s cheep. I am still amazed with the price difference between the porsche heads and type1 to type4 VW stuff.
Dave


I've got far too much deck height; shims would only make the problem worse!

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PostPosted: February 2, 2012, 8:44 pm 
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So, update time. Turns out that the deck is supossed to be less than .060". Even with the large deck, static CR was 7.6:1. A good fellow over on shoptalkfourms measured is stock jugs, and what ya know, mine were 2.2mm longer. This also may have been throwing off something called valve geometry, and while I'm sure there is something to it its not where the power was, the power was missing from the big cam and high deck.

SO, the plan is to shave 0.105" off the bottom of the jugs, brinigng deck to about .055". Static cr of 9.8:1. dynamic will be 7.8:1. The stock 2.0l was 7.4:1. I will run premium fuel. If it becomes an issue, electronic timing. If it cooks, so be it. I'll either get new heads at that point (the likely failure point) or do a different engine.

So, while its all apart I've been doing some other work.
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30+ pounds of not useful things gone....

Now.... I need a 'glovebox'. I have the old DIN blank from my golf....so this car will always have a lil dub in it.
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trimmed up, not to seal those holes...

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used some 3m spray glue, and its laminated. Light and locost. Little message there too :D

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Big enough for a fish.

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With that amp out the way I can properly mount the MSD box.
[commercial voice]MSD stands for MULTIPLE SPARK DISCHARGE[\commercial voice]


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poking around the rear.... look what I find.


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would anyone care to venture what type of fluid that carries?


The parking brake has me stumped. Once its back on the road I'll figure something out.

With some luck, motor goes back together Saturday. Maybe in Sunday.

-Brad

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