Gunner1 wrote:
Hey, Roadog7.
I was reviewing your posts.
If I have it right,
-you have rebuilt your Duratec and you saw it run fine before the rebuild.
- I am not clear, did your engine run with the Ehrlick ignition system, or is it new to your motor?.
- you initially did not have a crank alignment tool (s) but eyeballed it. If it is like th e Zetec, You need two, one for the crank an one for the camshafts.
- you have spark, the issue appears to be timing.
- your strobe is random and intermittent but coincides with backfires, indicating confused ignition signals.
- It is not clear whether you are using the Duratec crankshaft sensor and trigger wheel or Ehrlich’s crankshaft sensor and trigger wheel, If I read your posts correctly, you are using the Duratec trigger wheel with the Quad4 ignition coils which should not work together.
- In your last post, you show the trigger wheel that matches the one I got from Ehrlich for the Zetec. The difference is that my trigger wheel can be removed from the flywheel damper and re positioned in slotted holes to alter initial timing.
- in your last pic, I can’t make out a key way slot on the crank damper pulley…is there one?
- Despite the fact that from your posts where it seems that your engine ran fine with GM coils and a Ford trigger wheel, I have trouble with that as they are two different systems with different trigger wheel counts.
- My best suggestion is to find true TDC on compression using the timing tools as can be found on Amazon for the crankshaft stop and camshaft stop. Then install the crank damper with the slots that coincide with WelderLees diagram and your last post and see if you can get the crank sensor to point to about an inch before notch #5 per Welderlees diagram. That should fire the engine and get you close.
Hey Gunner1,
I'll try to clarify a few of the details:
-I've had the car 3-1/2 yrs. Car ran on the Ehrlich Q4R (GM) ignition with never a fault. Upon rebuilding a better spare motor. I reinstalled the exact same damper pulley with the integral stock multi-toothed trigger wheel. All electronics remained the same. I actually had the old engine out twice for transmission and clutch issues. Both times everything went back together and ran fine after.
-Engine was very carefully assembled with the proper crankshaft pin, camshaft holders, and bolt locating crank pulley to engine cover. There are no crankshaft key ways. The duratec (Ford Ranger) engine relies on an extremely tight crankshaft bolt with friction washers to hold it all together.
-The part I did not have was an alignment tool for the actual crankshaft position sensor - Stock 2-wire Ford part. The sensor simply lines up directly in line with nearest tooth with engine at TDC. I ordered a new sensor which comes with a its own plastic alignment tool to locate the sensor.
- When I first attempted to start the engine I seemed to get some firing but also a great deal of backfire activity. I then per suggestion here, found a timing light and noted some erratic flashes. I then readjusted the Crank Position sensor with greater accuracy (within 1/10 mm.)
-Since then I have had no spark... I also have no tach activity either- also pointing to faulty sensor. I am currently waiting for the new sensor to arrive - I'm hoping it is the defective part.
-The extra pulley with the 7 notches like your diagram came in a box with extra engine parts. I was confused seeing it and thought it actually might belong to a 6 cylinder although it does fit my crank.
-To reiterate one key point - I'm extremely confident in the timing of the new engine, as well as the timing of the old engine some components came off of.
Thanks again for all your input! It's amazing how complexly simple (and interesting) a system like this can be. I do stand by the Quad4rod setup and hope to get at least another season out of it. I must admit the Nodiz system looks nice though...