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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 14, 2021, 8:09 pm 
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Joined: December 12, 2011, 2:45 pm
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I am ready to build the suspension but my plans call for tubing in metric diameter (I am using the Saturn Sports Cars build manual modifying the Haynes roadster to use a Miata). Does anyone have another set of plans for building the suspension that uses imperial measure? Also what thickness have you used?

Does anyone have any advice about cutting the semi-circular notches in the tubing like those labeled A in the attached photo? I'd rather not free-hand this.

And finally, several of the suspension tubes must have inside threads also as labeled A in the attached Photo. Is there special tubing for this or inserts that one welds into the tube?

And finally does someone have a source for the tubular fitting with a threaded rod attaches as labeled A in the attached Photo?

I thought this would be easy to sort out on the internet but is has not been. I've been stalled for some time because of this and I'd really like to get back on track.

I live in Seattle WA and I'd love to talk to anyone in the Seattle area who has built a car.


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PostPosted: January 14, 2021, 8:25 pm 
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Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
Posts: 961
Location: Vancouver, BC
In the past I've used 3/4" DOM for upper wishbones with a wall thickness of .065 (16ga), lower wishbones I've used both 7/8" with a .065 wall and 1" with .065 wall. But, see what your metal supplier stocks in DOM and go from there. A thicker wall woudln't hurt, provided you can get full penetration when welding

For the upper wishbone threaded bung, I've machined some out of 1018 bar stock.

The lower wishbone bushing assembly you've highlighted as "B" is found on the interwebs as a Bushed Adjustable Rod end, but finding one in the size your after might be difficult. Most are marketed for the off road community.

And finally the tube cutting, search for a program called "Tubemiter" for the tubing fishmouths. It allows you to print out a flat version of your cut, that you then wrap around the tube, mark, then cut.


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PostPosted: January 14, 2021, 8:54 pm 
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Joined: October 23, 2010, 2:40 am
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S-turbo, welcome to the madness. There are several locosters in the Seattle area who have gotten together in pre-Covid times. All have been helpful to me and happy to talk about solutions. Hopefully we will regroup in 2021. What part of town are you in?

I get all my steel from Online Metals, usually at a 10+% discount. They are located near the Ballard bridge so I do Will Call and pick-up at their warehouse door to save freight charges. Good variety of shapes and sizes of tubing, sheet, bar, etc., some in metric as well. Shouldn't be too tough to approximate the metric tubes in inches, just go up a size if need be and use DOM tubing.

Check Speedway Motors for the bungs, etc. you are looking for and then dig into the websites of their venders. Lots of that kind of stuff available from the circle track guys. Jack (KV) may provide some as well.

I'm using the free version of Digital Pipefitter for my fishmouths. One can copy the results and print a template via a photo editor.

I look forward to following your build.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: January 15, 2021, 8:32 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Try these guys for threaded Bung inserts for adjusting the control arm rod end. Check threaded adapters.

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/catdispla ... php?pg=565

davew


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PostPosted: January 15, 2021, 11:16 am 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
SeattleTurbo wrote:
Does anyone have any advice about cutting the semi-circular notches in the tubing like those labeled A in the attached photo? I'd rather not free-hand this.


I'd rather free hand those versus using a holesaw in a drillpress, a mill, or a tubing miter - shallow angles leave a piece that is too long for your typical holesaw. Mark a straight line between each of your weld bungs along the tube centerline, measure the length, add a little more for the fishmouth, miter cut the tube, and grind the radius with a bench grinder.

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PostPosted: January 15, 2021, 12:24 pm 
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Joined: December 4, 2010, 1:53 pm
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I have used a similar program to tube mitre:
https://www.blocklayer.com/pipe-notcheng.aspx

I my experience, it is much easier to print out the mitre, mark the tube, and cut it than to fishmouth with a hole saw or a milling machine (which I have)
In my opinion, you don't have to make "B" adjustable as long as you plan everything carefully enough.
For A, I used square bar, drilled and tapped. no mitre to cut, and I could angle it the way I wanted easily to maximize the travel within the upper ball joint.


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PostPosted: January 23, 2021, 4:27 am 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
I live in Shoreline and have a 99.9% completed Locost. Slip on a mask and come by and I'll show what not to do with your front end.

Mine is a +4 and I'm running a 20V 4AGE,Toyota T50 Trans, Miata rear sub frame and control arms swapped 180 degrees with an old Supra
pumpkin hung on it.

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