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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 29, 2021, 9:01 pm 
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BostonWill wrote:
Tom, I was looking at build photos for front fender mounting and found yours. What dia tubes did you use for the fender stays? And how much clearance did you decide on to clear the tires?
Thom, I used 0.75" x 0.065" tube for the fender stays per Perry. IIRC, I set the cross-tire stay tubes to be about 3/4" clear of the tire. While fabbing the stays, the "tires" were simulated with plywood mock-ups so not sure what the real tires clearance will turn out to be.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

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PostPosted: March 30, 2021, 6:44 am 
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Tom, you might want to support the tube with a steering arm strap and close the end of the box as shown. You could also make the blue brace on the right that can be removed without disturbing anything (handy if something breaks on the road). For the "spuds", use DOM with a 1/8 larger ID than the required socket OD. Fab washers from 1/8 strip to weld to the tubes. You can slant cut the tubes away from the adjacent tube for aesthetics. Just an idea. A heavier wall will flex less too and be easier to weld. I missed the original conversation last year.


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seattletom clamshell stays.jpg
seattletom clamshell stays.jpg [ 251.36 KiB | Viewed 435 times ]

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PostPosted: March 31, 2021, 6:28 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Tom, you might want to support the tube with a steering arm strap and close the end of the box as shown. You could also make the blue brace on the right that can be removed without disturbing anything (handy if something breaks on the road). For the "spuds", use DOM with a 1/8 larger ID than the required socket OD. Fab washers from 1/8 strip to weld to the tubes. You can slant cut the tubes away from the adjacent tube for aesthetics. Just an idea. A heavier wall will flex less too and be easier to weld. I missed the original conversation last year.
Thanks, MV8, great suggestions. I did end up welding in a diagonal brace between the two arms, so do have to pop off the UBJ to remove the stay. The stay seems pretty stiff being bolted to the spindle in two planes (as long as nobody sits on the fender. :BH: ) But if need be, the support tube to the steering arm strap would add a lot of reinforcement.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: March 31, 2021, 9:02 pm 
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I was also thinking of a flat steel arc of metal attached to the outer side of the stays would also stabilize the rods ad add a bit of "style" to the back of the wheels

Thom


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PostPosted: May 8, 2021, 12:35 pm 
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BostonWill wrote:
I was also thinking of a flat steel arc of metal attached to the outer side of the stays would also stabilize the rods ad add a bit of "style" to the back of the wheels
Thom, the outer ends of the stays are hidden under the fenders, so not visible. The fenders themselves also add a lot of rigidity to the assembly. Hopefully enough.

Well, spring has sprung in the Pacific Northwest and a nice one it’s been. Ignoring the old adage about “not planting more garden than his wife can keep” has kept me out of the garage but enjoying the (temporary) sunshine. However did get the high-mounted third brakelight mounted--twice. :roll:

Mounting the previously purchased light required fabbing a box to route wiring, etc.
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But once tacked in place it looked out of place. Too large and not in keeping with the more subtle ’39 Chevy taillights used. So cut off the box mount and opted for the lights ccrunner used from these guys:
https://www.customdynamics.com/red-led-truflex-with-red-housing?cat=320

A flat surface on the roll bar for the replacement light strip was made from a 1/8” slice of 0.5” x x0.065” square tube.
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Just enough to locate the light strip:
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Once taped on, the 115 LED strip should provide a very bright third brake light plus taillight function. The brake-to-tail converter circuit mounts in the boot, minimizing the visible wiring.

While waiting for lighting parts to arrive, there's also been some progress on the cockpit panels for the roll bar bulkhead. The rain has helped.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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