Tundra 7 wrote:
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
An example of the traction aid I've been referring to:
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb27.htmBut use sphericals instead of bushes to prevent binding and make the length adjustable.
So the YJ springs I’m guessing are from another car? I’ve been finding MGB OEM spring rates from 93-116 in/lb. I have no idea what to believe.
These springs you speak of are a match obviously to this build but there 2-3/4” wide? I recently found spring sliders. They seem appealing, would they work for this as well?
When I asked the guy if the parabolics would work with V8 I honestly didn’t think they were that weak, oh well. He was probably laughing too. The mix and match game gets a little dicey, you have done a lot of homework on this. Hahaha I gave up and was going to go back to stock. You have my attention I just have to get all the parts in my head.
There is definitely more to consider when using leafs than when using coils.
Sliders are better than shackles because they are less likely to bind when cornering and they don’t add to or take away from spring rate the way the angle of a shackle (relative to a line drawn through front and rear eyes) does. They need to be kept clean though.
There are benefits to going from a thick stack of 1-3/4 inch wide leafs to a thin stack of 2-1/2 inch leafs. Reduced friction from fewer leafs, stronger leafs, much more resistant to lateral deformation from cornering loads and lower cost with similar weight. Most everything uses 2-1/2 inch wide springs. Utility trailers use 1-3/4 wide springs like the mgb. 70s postal jeeps (also called DJs) have 2 inch wide front springs on the front axle.
The YJ I’ve been referring to is the early 90s/late 80s Jeep Wrangler (the one with square headlights). It has 2-1/2 inch wide leaf springs on the front and rear that are the same design but the rear has an extra leaf for a higher spring rate. These are the only oem application leafs I’ve found that should work with the mgb shackle bush location, which is more difficult to modify than moving the front eye hangers forward. Pinto/mustang 2 leafs are close but too long behind the axle.
Two of these ($155):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303896140808?f ... SwuvBgNLuiFull jeep leaf bushing set ($36):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313677054439?f ... SwVJ5hQ4mmBasic shackles to mod (shimming mgb side) and hardware:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133848810235?h ... Sw9xJdk1-KMgb shackle bushing set (if jeep set can’t be made to fit the mgb frame) ($20):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152704258532?f ... SwqYhZu05lLeaf perches that are not welded until the end when the pinion angle is set or you can make your own ($18/pair):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153199439555?_ ... %3A2047675You may want lowering blocks like most mgbs that I’ve seen and may need longer ubolts. Here is a typical kit ($53) or you can build the perch and space as needed:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133373941421?_ ... =671685162You should still have the 8.8 leaf plates to build off of for the damper mounts and traction link. If not, any older ford truck or van can provide plates and probably ubolts.
If I were planning for this from the beginning, I’d probably go with a 95 explorer traction lok 8.8 with swaybar (or lighter bronco II with a 7.5, all the same stuff but narrower width) and reuse all the hardware along with used YJ leafs and hardware from the South or dry rust-free western areas through ebay sellers.
However, if you are just trying to build a car for resale, oem interchangeable leafs or a 4 link will probably be better than trying to sell a buyer on the fact that you fit Jeep suspension, even if it is an improvement. A good bit of work no matter what you do.
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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS
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