Tom’s Car9 – LS3 Build

[Lonnie-S]

. . . S@ddlez kind of fits alongside t@bs and br@cketz in the locost lexicon of fiddly things that burn up a lot of build time. I think JD would approve of the spelling.

For sure!

[seattletom]

Continuing to sort out wiring, brake and fuel line routings and placing the needed t@bs, br@cketz and s@ddlez. An amazing amount of those little suckers to put in!
Purpose of this post is to remind me of how it all goes back together during reassembly.

The rear chassis wiring can now make its way along the tunnel to the scuttle area. The s@ddlez made for nice compact fixing.

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After a through-frame port is added, the fuel line will exit the tunnel, run alongside the tranny and up the firewall to the fuel rail.

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The e-brake control cable is now clamped down between the left-side handle and the tunnel.

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The rear brake proportioning valve and residual pressure valve are located. Will add a through-frame fitting to pass the rear brake line into the tunnel and make up the hard lines after the drivetrain is pulled.

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Starting on routing and fixing the front chassis wiring harness and the battery cables and grounds. Routes are pretty much determined and another batch of cable-tie s@ddelz and cushion clamp t@bs have been made up, so this step should go faster.

Also finishing the dash layout and plan to order Speedhut gauges by year-end. Turns out Speedhut has a sale going on until December 30 (a rare event!) So moving this up the schedule to save a few bucks.

[Mnot]

Tom,
are the driveshaft hoops welded or do they bolt in?

[seattletom]

Tom, are the driveshaft hoops welded or do they bolt in?

Gavin, the top of the legs are welded to the rings (just tacked for now.) The bottom of the legs will bolt to t@bs welded to the chassis. Two 3/8" bolts per leg. The hoop assemblies need to be removeable so I can install/remove the driveshaft without pulling the diff.

[seattletom]

Finished running the mock-up front wiring harness from the scuttle, along the upper chassis rail to the front bulkhead. Wiring will service headlights, turn signals, fan, water pump and alternator. Required br@ck^ts and s@ddl^z are located and tacked in place. A thermo sleeve will be added where the harness runs near the headers.

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High-mount brake light arrived and mock-up br@ck^ts underway. Got the light from these folks:
https://www.online-led-store.com/16-inc ... tbl1520-rd
In addition to a very bright brake light it can provide tail lights and sequential flashing turn signals. Don't know how much of this function I will implement.

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May also add a strobe effect module to the brake light.
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/brake-li ... p-181.html

Making progress on battery cables and grounds.

[TRX]

May also add a strobe effect module to the brake light.

Besides annoying other drivers, that'll get you a ticket in some states; mine for one. ($250, last I looked) Flashing lights, other than turn signals or hazard flashers, are prohibited other than for specified police or emergency vehicles.

[seattletom]

Besides annoying other drivers, that'll get you a ticket in some states; mine for one. ($250, last I looked) Flashing lights, other than turn signals or hazard flashers, are prohibited other than for specified police or emergency vehicles.

Thanks TRX, I don't need to attract that kind of attention.

Been wrapping up the remaining wire routings by fixing the chassis mounting points for the battery cables. Once the disconnect switch is fixed on the dash and a real battery is installed the cable ends can be completed. But for now, it’s all about determining routing and welding in t@bs.

Positive cable from the battery to the disconnect switch and from the switch disconnect side forward:

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Positive continues to the starter with a negative return from the block to the battery negative:

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The battery negative also has a separate connection to chassis ground:

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And a separate block to ground connection for good measure:

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Using #1 AWG cable for all the positive and ground side legs. Terminal lugs are soldered and crimped.

On to my nemesis the tunnel. With the tunnel innards kind of figured out its time to start on the doghouse that covers the nose of the diff.

The doghouse shape is double tapered to provide clearance for the rearmost seat position. It also has to have removable panels for access to the diff front mount bolts and the LCA control arms pivot bolts.

Here’s progress on the driver’s side.

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Alloy panels attached via nutserts will cover the access holes. The passenger side of the doghouse has a few more challenges to contend with, but feeling good about the progress.

Ordered a set of Speedhut gauges and Carling switches for the dash. The final dash layout will require some of the mounting t@bs to be moved so cutting a new dash panel is now on the list.

[Lonnie-S]

All the fab work looks super, Tom.

Will that (foam simulated) little battery actually turn over that big V8? It doesn't look too much bigger than a motorcycle battery.

I'll be very interested in seeing how your body panel scheme comes together. I have it in mind to do something similar, but no definite plan yet. I'll be looking to yours for some guidance.

Cheers,

[a.moore]

Great fab work on all of those tiny details Tom. They're turning out very well.

[seattletom]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback.

Will that (foam simulated) little battery actually turn over that big V8? It doesn't look too much bigger than a motorcycle battery.

Lonnie, the Odyssey PC680 battery should have enough poop to kick over the V8. It’s a GM crate motor/ECU combo with a little bit of cam but factory stock. I don’t expect to have to grind on it for too long before it fires up. If the alternator keeps up with the electrical load when running, it should be ok.

I'll be very interested in seeing how your body panel scheme comes together. I have it in mind to do something similar, but no definite plan yet. I'll be looking to yours for some guidance.

The panel attachment system (floating nutplates, etc.) is borrowed from Martin (mgkluft). It’s nice to have most every panel removable and all the innards accessible.

Great fab work on all of those tiny details Tom. They're turning out very well.

Thanks Andrew. As you know, the devil is in the details. One of the joys of using round tubing is having to weld on the br@ck^ts and t@bs. Square tube has lots of flat places where rivets or nutserts can be used as needed late in the game. Hopefully, I’ll have welded on most of what I’ll need before painting the chassis.

On that note, did some finish-up on tying down the battery cables. I’m a bit paranoid about vibration induced abrasion on the positive cable, even with a “little” battery.

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Of particular concern is where the + cable passes through the footwell-firewall. The lower yellow nylon clamp not only anchors both cables but will act as a grommet of sorts.

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Going back to the tunnel, some progress made on the passenger side of the diff doghouse. Need to resolve the inboard seatbelt mounting points before completing the doghouse and wrapping up the tunnel cover. Pics when there is more to show.

[seattletom]

More progress on the tunnel and environs. To finish the doghouse covering the diff snout, the seat belt anchors had to be located and welded in, which meant the seat mount anchor points had to be welded in first. And on the passenger’s side a prerequisite was widening the tunnel base 5/8” to accommodate the driveline offset. Then there was the safety hoop mounts to complete…

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After all the bits were welded in I had a panic attack about whether the driveshaft could still be installed.
But it does still just fit in from the driver's side with the bolt-in safety hoops loose.

So I think I’m finally ready to make the alloy panels for the tunnel sides, the doghouse access ports and the rear bulkhead. Once I make up another batch of floating nutplate t@bs that is…

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[seattletom]

Tunnel internals pretty much complete. Some details left for rotisserie time.

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Ok, enough tunnel-porn, time to get it covered.

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A couple of hammer-form bump outs were added on the passenger side for extra safety hoop clearance.

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Final edge fitting of the panels to be done once final welding is complete. And then the tunnel sides get mostly covered when the seats go in.

Instruments and switches arrived, so finalizing dashboard is next.

[benny_toe]

You have been keeping the sanity in place by being busy! Good progress. Like the curve in the top piece edges! looking good Tom!

Cheers,

[JPS Europa]

Tom,
You have been cranking on the beast for sure. I am looking forward to seeing it in person again before too very long. Getting my first vaccine shot next Sunday.
Paul

[seattletom]

You have been keeping the sanity in place by being busy! Good progress. Like the curve in the top piece edges! looking good Tom!

Thanks, Larry. Progress has been good, except on a number of domestic projects.
And Sanity is relative--after all I'm building one of these things...

You have been cranking on the beast for sure. I am looking forward to seeing it in person again before too very long. Getting my first vaccine shot next Sunday.

Paul, glad vaccine is flowing your way. The sooner folks gets jabbed the sooner we all get beyond this mess. Give a holler when you come out to see Matt. It would be great to have a COVID-safe gathering.