Ready for coilovers, but I need help choosing them

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Pics help when my definition of "collapsed" is probably different than yours. I expect removing the cross tube let the arms move closer together, but they could be spread back apart with a 1/2 inch threaded rod, washers, and nuts enough for the spring back to align with the frame brkts. If the tubing collapsed, you are probably using too thin a wall or you dented it then tried to bend it. You didn't say.

It should not matter if the pivot bolts are fully torqued or snugged if the pivots are not bonded rubber/one-piece bushes versus three pieces (outer shell, bush, inner sleeve all separate parts).

[tibimakai]

They have collapsed like 3/16ths. Tried adding another tube below, before I cut out the existing one, but even that was still interfering.
I want to make it right, no problem, we have laser cutter at work, I'm a machinist, even have a mini mill and mini lathe at home, I will remake these parts.
This time, I won't underestimate the warpage from welding. I machined fake poli bushings out of steel, I will add a tube between the to bushings and even push through the bushings a 1/2 threaded rod, just to be sure.

[tibimakai]

The rear suspension has factory bushings. Front uses poli bushings.

[tibimakai]

OK, finally I have managed to make new control arms, but even with metal supported components for the jig, it still did not keep the proper distances between the two bushings.
One of them shrank way to much, more than 1/8th. So I had to "fix" one of the original arms.
This is why I need the cross brace on these arms. They keep the proper spacing, but also adds a bit more confidence that they will hold up while driving.
At 4" bump(from ride height), and maximum turning to the left, this is how it looks. I know that is not needed to be that high, but I wanted to see how far will "bottom out".

[tibimakai]

I had to add two 1/2 washers under the steering rack, to give me a bit more wheel travel. This way the LCA and steering rod s even more parallel to each other.
Do you guys think that it changed much the bump steer, by adding two washers(.162")?
I need help with the rear suspension, since I don't know how to measure it with factory rubber bushings.
Should I leave all the bolts lose, and push the suspension all the way down to get the maximum travel, same for the bump?

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

The rack tierod clearance to the LCA is not ok.See previous comments on how to fix this.

The irs check is the same as the ifs. To make it easier, you can slightly loosen the bolts so with effort, you can rotate the arms.

[tibimakai]

All these pictures are at max bump and steering turned to max left. I can't raise the rack, because it will be to short.
They are loose right now, I let them hanging butI can still push the suspension down even more.

[waltj]

I think you may have missed something along the way. In bump, the most upwards travel you will see is the compressed length of the shock. In droop, the wheel will drop no more than the extended length of the shock. More travel in either direction will mean there are larger problems. Check your clearances with the shock installed w/o springs.

[tibimakai]

I don't have shocks or springs. That is what I would like to buy, but first I need to know what to buy.

[waltj]

MV8 pretty much answered the shock question here in post #3 on page #1

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

All these pictures are at max bump and steering turned to max left. I can't raise the rack, because it will be to short.
They are loose right now, I let them hanging butI can still push the suspension down even more.

How many inches of bump from ride height is shown in the pics? Steering must clear at full bump at any point in the steering; not just full lock in one direction.

Three inches of bump is a typical goal but you can reduce it a little but must ensure the coilover bumps stops prevent the travel to where the steering could impact the LCA. If the rack is too short, the rack can be extended some without modification to the housing. I don't remember if you narrowed this rack.

[tibimakai]

4". So, if the bump stop is 1", then I have 3" bump travel. The steering clears everything the rest of the way.
I have shortened the rack 9.25".

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

If you show it raised 4 inches, drop it to 3 or atleast to the point where steering has no chance of hitting the LCA. This will be "full bump". Now you can start looking at compressed lengths you can fit PLUS a compressed bump stop. Bump stops have different densities and thicknesses so they will all compress to a degree. If you are going to run a hard rubber stop that is one inch thick, then add 3/4" to the coilover compressed length. Make the clearance tool. You may need to move the upper mount up higher as well Nothing is set yet.

[tibimakai]

I was at work, when I said 4", actually I only have 3.5" in that picture.
You mentioned earlier, if is not working out as is, I should install the tie rod from above. How this will be mounted, since the taper is opposite, of the tie rod taper?

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

As high as it will go without any issues is full bump. A bump stop does not reduce this dimension.
The bump stop affects coilover selection.

It doesn't sound like you need to flip the outer tie rod or raise the rack.
However,it could be flipped by reaming the taper into the top of the spindle boss. A tapered sleeve can be added to the lower taper to fill if needed. Another option is to drill the taper out to fit a bolt and spherical rod end.