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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: July 31, 2015, 2:00 pm 
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Location: Chino, CA
Here is some pictures of my paper template. I need to add about 1 inch to the top and bottom of the template to have enough material to bend over the top and bottom tubing.

I think I will mark it out on some aluminum sheet, cut the pattern out with my handy new electric shears, then attach to the rear section and slowly bend around to form the rear radius.

We have an Aircraft Spruce store nearby in Corona Calif that has the 3003 aluminum in the desired thickness. They sell 3003 .040 in for $32.59 for 4X4 sheet or $65.17 for 4X8 sheet.


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PostPosted: August 3, 2015, 10:29 am 
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A little margin beyond the edges of your template is a good thing. I cut mine to the exact size of the template and came up a little short on top. You can always trim it later.


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PostPosted: September 8, 2015, 9:09 pm 
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Well I went down today to Aircraft Spruce in Corona CA and bought some .040 3003 aluminum.

Got it home and cut off a pice with my new (and cheap) Harbor Freight electric shears. Fired up the propane torch and did some practice annealing.

Now I see what you all mean. I feel much more confident doing the back piece. The aluminum bends like you were bending a piece of paper when you anneal the metal.

I just ordered a Cleco kit from Jegs. When I get that in, I will attemp doing the back panel.

Wish me luck!!!

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James Cuba
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Chino, Calif


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PostPosted: September 8, 2015, 9:24 pm 
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Once you're done you'll wonder why you were so worried about it!


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PostPosted: September 9, 2015, 9:29 am 
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The aluminum you bought is probably H14 (half hard). You shouldn't have to anneal at all for the back panel. If you anneal into the flat field area of the panel it may warp, never to be flat again. Annealing is usually only required when significant shrinking or stretching is required.

Bend the panel over the tubes with a rubber mallet or soft wooden hammer. A 2" x 4" also works. Only the corners will require shrinking and they can be trimmed so it's not really necessary.


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PostPosted: September 9, 2015, 10:08 am 
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I also did the board across the back when rolling the top over as well. In fact, wherever I could clamp it without hurting it, I did. I made the cardboard template, clamped the cutout in place, then formed, riveted and glued the bottom flat edge in place as shown in the picture. From there it was just bashing, heating and bashing some more. I used a plastic mallet and pieces of oak flooring shaped the way I wanted for forming. It is all glued down with 3M 5200 and only riveted on the bottom. I did use thicker aluminum than most (0.062 thick 3003 dead soft)as I wanted some dent resistance but also wanted formability, but the thickness definitely made it harder to form. All in all, it came out so good I now regret having painted it. Success, first try!


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PostPosted: October 4, 2015, 3:52 pm 
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Well I tried it and did pretty good the first try!!!!

I will post pictures soon.

I took the pattern and drew out the pattern about 1 inch larger. I used my newly acquire cheap and good Harbor Freight electric shears to cut the aluminum. These shears cut the aluminum like butter.

I annealed only on the corners and annealed heavily where I was going to bend over the top and bottom. My bottom frame area was not completely rounded off, so when I bent the aluminum over the bottom it made some weird impressions in the aluminum.

This typically would not be acceptable if I was going to leave it raw, but since I am painting my rear panel, a little body filler made it perfect.

You all were right!!!! I can and did do it!!! No need for help or a pro to do this work.

I feel I could do it well enough the next time if I wanted to keep it raw.

Thanks for the words of encouragement, and I promise....pictures coming soon!

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Chino, Calif


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PostPosted: October 4, 2015, 3:55 pm 
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TRX wrote:
Once you're done you'll wonder why you were so worried about it!



You are 100% right!!

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Chino, Calif


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PostPosted: October 5, 2015, 4:27 pm 
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The worst is over. Maybe. Congrats.


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PostPosted: October 9, 2015, 12:15 pm 
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OK... as promised... Here are some pictures.

Remember this will be a fully painted car, so I still have work to do!!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

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Chino, Calif


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PostPosted: October 9, 2015, 4:53 pm 
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You did an excellent job! The top corners look very smooth.

Roy

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PostPosted: October 10, 2015, 12:57 am 
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Looks good. See, that wasn't so hard after all.
Kristian

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PostPosted: October 11, 2015, 4:46 pm 
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turbo_bird wrote:
Looks good. See, that wasn't so hard after all.
Kristian



Thanks. If I had to do it again, there are a few things I would have done different.

The main thing I learned is to not have too much excess material around the very tight radius turns.

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James Cuba
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Chino, Calif


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PostPosted: October 11, 2015, 8:14 pm 
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80s old school wrote:
turbo_bird wrote:
Looks good. See, that wasn't so hard after all.
Kristian



Thanks. If I had to do it again, there are a few things I would have done different.

The main thing I learned is to not have too much excess material around the very tight radius turns.

That was my biggest mistake too. Yours turned out better than mine though. Mine wrinkled and then got hidden under the aluminum rear deck cover I made.
Kristian

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PostPosted: October 11, 2015, 11:12 pm 
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Lots of annealing, pounding, heat some more, pounding and filing went into those corners!!!!

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Chino, Calif


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