LocostUSA.com

testing with pictures...

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...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]

Seeing your test I just got enthusiastic and started to post, but as soon as i attempted to preview my message (I always do that after attaching each picture) I got the error message again ....

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

Just tried a short text post with one photo - and didn't preview. Got the error message. Rats.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

I was thinking to take a screen shot and post that but I guess that won;t work either

Not to rub it in but just checking.....I loaded this 189KB jpg file



I then tried to load a 4+MB photo and after 2 minutes of loading... loading....loading, I clicked the "close window" button. I got this reply"

So I then tried to load a PDF file and got this message:



So maybe it it not the file's size or file extension.

Have you tried uploading a small JPG file using a different browser?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

This was a test post with a photo from another source file - it worked ... I've since deleted the photo)

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

It worked!!!!!

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

(This was a test post to diagnose a photo-related problem - contents deleted)

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

I think I'm back in business ... but I'll try with a series of shorter posts.

With some embarrassment I realize that it was in December 2010 that I reported my front suspension design process (page 2 of the log), or two years and a bit ago. So I dug the pieces out and made up some jigs to locate the inboard ends of the UCA and LCA at the specified heights (height alone is enough, since with fixed ball joint positions and control arm lengths, pivot height will define inner pivot axes). The one update I did from my earlier analyses was to modify the hub carrier to provide some negative camber (I aimed for 1 degree, but claimed victory at 1 ¼ degree negative – ¼ degree is close enough among friends).

Then I mocked up the radiator (from Summit Racing, once again bought about two years ago) together with the COLD nose. Major problem …. If I lined up the front end of the LCA with the forward-most structure of the chassis, the UCA inner ends didn’t line up with the vertical members on the chassis. If I extended the chassis forward so that I could move things forward, I would have interference issues with the lower radiator fitting. On the plus side, there was clearly room for me to attach supports for the bumper (ugh!) that Nova Scotia’s Registry of Motor Vehicles would require.
This conundrum points out the challenge (folly?) of buying a standard frame and attempting to do non-standard things with it. Even worse, I bought a non-standard COLD frame with standard COLD LCAs ….

(Continued in next post if this works!)

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

So I junked those nasty ‘book’ LCAs with their skinny, symmetrical arms and ugly ball joint fit-up for new LCAs. The sketch shows an asymmetric LCA to deal with my interference issues and allow relocation of the spindle axis so that the inner ends of the UCAs align with the chassis verticals. These LCAs use 1x.095 tube, which may be overkill, although the 1 inch diameter does allow me to install the Isuzu lower ball joints as they were originally fitted to the donor pick-up, with two of the retaining bolts in double shear between two plates. The double plates also allow me to push the lower coil-over mount farther outboard than on the book LCAs, to reduce bending moment on the LCA.

My apologies for the quality of my working drawing (as well as the missing bits - it won't fit on my scanner) – it was done for my own use and lacks a number of dimensions and details because I could scale them from the original. But it does show the key feature – the pocket for mounting the ball joint. I will admit some jealousy of the CAD-capable among you. I downloaded DraftSight some time ago, but every time I have something like this to do it is much quicker to grab a pencil than learn something new! But having DraftSight does mean that I can finally view and print .dwg files that are of interest to me.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

Ok, it is definately a bad source folder .....

Building the LCAs followed much the usual path. I built a fairly common MDF jig, although for fabrication purposes I increased the length of the rear LCA pivot tube to avoid chances of welding burn-through at the tube ends. I trimmed the tube down to its finished 1 3/8 in. length after weld-up. I also left the arms of the LCA long, again to avoid burn through at the open ends, and trimmed them after welding.

The 1 in. diameter LCA arms weren’t ‘quite’ big enough for the ball joints to slide into the pocket created by the plates. I imagine the Isuzu LCAs must have had 26mm internal dimensions, so I had to dress the faces of the ball joint plates to fit in the nominal 1 inch space.

Finally, I left the lower coil-over bracket loose at this point, since its fore and aft location would be determined on the car, to maximize clearances between the UCA and the coil-over. Overall I’m happy with the result. My welding of the plates to the tubes is neater looking than I usually achieve, although the same cannot be said of the welds around the fishmouth cuts, where I did a lot of short runs to minimize out-of-position or awkward positioned welds. At least I got things good and hot, so I am confident of penetration.
One question remains uppermost in mind. I’m awaiting arrival of an MGB rack, for which the geometry was designed: will the outer tie rod end and rack be high enough so that there is no interference with the forward arm of the LCA on full droop?

(Aside: I'm going to go back and delete some of my test posts that I made while diagnosing the picture problem. Thank you to those who helped out with tests!)

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

Looking good Warren, very well thought out.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Question at large: Looking at my last post I have locking nuts on the four-bar ends (adjustable bushed ends) I'm using on my Speedway UCAs. Locking nuts put uneven stress distributions on threads as I recall. These locking nuts are redundant because the brackets will stop the ends from rotating, beyond possible slop in the bushes. Any thoughts on why I shouldn'r just get rid of these lock nuts? It's not like a tie rod or four-bar (or even a heim joint) where there is freedom to rotate.

My one concern would be small amplitude oscillations which could be a bad thing. But is it worse than the uneven stress distribution on the thread? Automotive engineers: did this ever come up in design studies?

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

You want the lock nuts to stop the constant axial motion, eventually destroying the threads.

P.S. Glad you got the photo thingy fixed. Now it "looks" like you are making progress instead of just talking about it.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Agree with Chuck. Jam nuts eliminate the slop in the threads.

Thanks to Perry, Chuck and Nick for their comments. I will stick with the lock nuts!

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601