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The Triumph rack is VERY wide. I think I took 7-1/2" out of mine. Then machined tie rod adapters to connect the Triumph links to Chevette ends (Chevette spindles).

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

I guess I will just have to cut it then. Wish me luck.

I keep seeing it refered to as a steering tie rod end. But then you call it a ball joint. It looks like a ball joint to me too. What am I supposed to call it? Anyways maybe I can find a new one that will be the right size for my steering arms and also thread onto the Triumph rack? Since I dont have a lathe available.

Taylor

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+442 - Miata

+1

The tapers *must* match.

-dave

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...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]

If you can measure the small side and large side of the taper along with the distance between the 2 and then the thread and pitch of the other end and how long you want it I can look in the books at work to see what may be available for you. The ends of the tapers and distance between them needs to be quite accurate so use a dial caliper or micrometer.

Too bad that you couldn't get the Toyota van tie rod end with the spindle. I was lucky and did so all I had to do was modify the actual length of the tie rod to fit between the steering arm and the end of the steering rack.

You do have to have the A arms on or at least have the suspension pivot points on before you can determine the final rack length. In addition to the rack being the right length, the tie rods themselves may have to be cut down or lengthened.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Thanks guys. That van tie rod end is a good idea. I might just try to find one of those even if I have to modify it to fit the rack.

I really need to stop being cheap and just buy myself some books. I figure Staniforth first then Kimini? What you you guys recommend?

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+442 - Miata

I would double check your steering arm location i.e. "elevation" on the van spindles relative to the steering rack mounting height. I could not lower my rack enough to eliminate all of the bump steer. The rubber bellows would contact the lower frame tubes. You may have to put the steering tie rod end on top side of the arm Vs the stock location which is under the steering arm. I ended up reaming a straight shank hole in the van steering arm and using a standard 1/2" rod end.

Dave W

Glad to see Dave's on the ball. He's right about the tie rod having to go on top of the steering arm. Not only is bump steer an issue but if the tie rod is under the steering arm it's very close to the lower wishbone and will touch it in some positions. In my case because I had the van tie rod end I used it but I still had to make an insert for it so it could mount on the top of the steering arm.

In your case, since you don't have any tie rod end if you go Dave's route, drill the steering arm and use a rod end (not a ball joint) all you'll have to do is have an adaptor tube with the Triumph threads at one end and the rod end threads at the other end.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Well the rod end deal seems like the way to go. I think I will try to modify the steering arm to be higher. I ordered Staniforth's book last night so hopefully that will get me somewhere.

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+442 - Miata

I don't usually discourage someone for doing things their way but I'd say don't modify the steering arm. Even with a rose bud tip and heating it cherry red it's pretty short and stubby and you might end up with a shape you don't want. You might end up with the flat part tilted up at an angle you don't want and the chances of bending the two sides equally are remote. Don't ask me how I know

If you follow Dave's suggestion and put a rod end on top of the steering arm you'll have all the height that you need for clearance issues and the two arms will remain symetrical.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Ok. I'm going to go the rod end route but I guess if I have problems later I can just change it.

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+442 - Miata

just dropping by to show my method (what else is new lol)...


I cut the ball joint off the end of the triumph steering rod, and welded on the [male] threaded section from the celica rack. the steering rod end screws onto the [male] threaded section, just as in the celica. simple and lightweight.

I did have to heat the [female] rod end tube and bend it so it wouldn't interfere with the a-arm at either full droop or compression.

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Georgia Tech
Ride and Handling Engineer for a major car company
Locost finished - book frame, IRS, '84 celica GTS donor, '99 tacoma 2rz motor with a turbo, megasquirt DIYPNP. Getting rebuilt with new IRS, F20C
"the all-consuming time-sucking car, which I really enjoy working on" -KB

I dunno, man...that looks like a bend waiting to happen. I'm not really qualified to judge it, but it looks like a fat man standing on an empty soda can.

I haven't posted this yet, but yesterday I discovered that one of my tie rod extenders was bent. I haven't gone through my photos yet to try and discern when it occurred. I'll be embarrassed if it was when my wheel fell off and I never noticed it. :blush: I'll post more on that elsewhere later.

-dave

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...nowadays people are so intellectually lazy and lethargic that they can't build ANYTHING with their hands. They'll spend hours watching whiny people marooned on an island, but won't spend a second adding anything to the world. -weconway
Visit my [Locost 7 build log]

I understand, but it has help up beautifully. My rear lower suspension mounts managed to brake while these steering arms held up. The steering rack/arms take a lot of force too. I guess the best I could say is that Ill let you know when the fat man touches the ground

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Georgia Tech
Ride and Handling Engineer for a major car company
Locost finished - book frame, IRS, '84 celica GTS donor, '99 tacoma 2rz motor with a turbo, megasquirt DIYPNP. Getting rebuilt with new IRS, F20C
"the all-consuming time-sucking car, which I really enjoy working on" -KB

The heating and the bending of the tie rod really scares me.

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The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer