Dash and scuttle suggestions

[Mnot]

I am building a Haynes chassis +1 and using a Kinetic scuttle. I am trying to figure out the best way to build the dash. The easy route would be to screw the dash to the scuttle so that they would both lift from the car as a unit but could also be separated if needed. But I am trying to figure out if it would be better, albeit harder, to build a dash hoop welded to the frame that the scuttle simply covers so that the dash would remain when the scuttle is removed.

Any thoughts or experience appreciated.

-gavin

[benny_toe]

Weld the hoop. Scuttle removal with dash in place is a good thing. Easy access to all behind the dash.

IMG_0800.JPG

You wouldn't want to take all the instrument wires off with the scuttle. And you might have to one day.

Cheers

[C10CoryM]

Weld the hoop. Scuttle removal with dash in place is a good thing. Easy access to all behind the dash

I'll second that. 6 bolts, 6 wires and my scuttle is off; leaving full access to all the electrical. You will be messing around with that stuff, so make it easy.

[KB58]

The other approach is to permanently mount the scuttle and have just the dash be removable.

[carguy123]

The other approach is to permanently mount the scuttle and have just the dash be removable.

Which isn't as convenient an access.

[turbo_bird]

My car had a one piece dash/scuttle that was attached to the frame with 4 dzus fasteners, and it sucked for access to anything underneath. My car now has a dash hoop welded to the frame of the car and just a fiberglass scuttle cover that attaches with dzus fasteners the same as before. If I were to do it again, I would skip the scuttle entirely, and just make the hood longer to cover the dash as well. That wouldn't work as well if you plan to have a windshield though.







Kristian

[Mnot]

thats exactly the insight i was after, thank you!

[raceral]

The other approach is to permanently mount the scuttle and have just the dash be removable.

Which isn't as convenient an access.

I agree with Kurt, it is a good option as well, I have 9 Allen head screws , 2 bolts under the dash for the steering column and one connector under the hood.
It takes very little time to gain access to everything, which I have done a few times already.
Any of these options are good if laid out properly to start with.
Everything I did on my build was designed for easy access and easy removal down the road if need be, last thing I wanted to do was paint myself into a corner, so to speak.

Al

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

I am like-minded with Al and KB58. Along those lines, here is another idea, though it will add weight and complexity, more wiring, etc. Doesn't work as well with a cable speedo and it's best not to swing it open any further than it wants to go and no more often than necessary, but it is standard practice on heavy aircraft.

A couple a small, cheap hardware store hinges would work just as well. I'd use a fairly thick material due to the metal remaining between those big holes to keep the panel fairly rigid.

[geek49203]

Along those lines, here is another idea, though it will add weight and complexity, more wiring, etc. Doesn't work as well with a cable speedo and it's best not to swing it open any further than it wants to go and no more often than necessary, but it is standard practice on heavy aircraft.

(taking notes)

Thank you!

[nick47]

Next time I'd have to go with a pop-off scuttle. I went with the flip-down dash, and it's a hassle. I've gone through two (40-year-old) tachs and a speedometer, and what could've been a five minute replacement job took over an hour each time. Removing the steering wheel is a pain and I never felt good about disturbing all of the wiring under the dash.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Thanks Geek. I’d make the right side removable also like Al did his / not hinged since it would be in the way. A pop off makes a lot of sense too.

You can find a speedo and matching tach then add a small triple gauge set and a fuel guage that are similar enough to look matching for about $200 but make sure they are back lit and not flood lit. Flood lit is okay if the instrument is directly in front of you, but it can make it hard to read otherwise. If mixing and matching electrical gauges with mechanical gauges from autometer, the faces are different so they don’t quite match. Are you still considering the miata cluster? Image search for miata cluster to see what people are doing with those.

[davew]

I have to admit I made a swing down fuse panel in the pressager footwell, but I have really never had to access it while on the road. How often do you have to get to the fuse panel on your DD. It seems like more work with little reward, plus a single pc dash would probably look better and less chance of vibrating. Another vote for a removable scuttle and a fitted fuse panel.
Dave W

[raceral]

Or you could move the fuse panel to the engine compartment.

Al

[Mnot]

I took your suggestions and created an upper hoop from 3/4" round tube and will make a lower cross bar to support the bottom of the dash. All of it will be welded. The scuttle needed to have the mounting flange clearanced to accommodate the hoop. I will then use 2 or 3 bolts and nut-serts in the frame to mount it to the chassis on each side. The scuttle won't be attached to the dash to make removal easy and to create a clean appearance covering the edge of the dash.