LocostUSA.com

This is one possibility that looked promising to me. Haven't installed anything yet but still considering.

https://welderseries.com/Sway-Bar-Kit-Trim-to-Fit-3-4-Bar-p49762034

Cheers,
Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

Here is an interesting technique used an a Caterham, not sure I like it because theremust be some rocking motion , maybe it's to minor to have an effect.



Roy I like those kits, there are a few available all look great, but I think 3/4" might be to much for a 7, I was thinking or starting at about 1/4".

Graham

Graham,
If you look closer at the "links" in the BAT ad that this came from, you'll see that it's just my old Caterham and it's a design of mine that works because there is very little suspension movement. (no offense taken, I understand your point)

Ron

Ron, I am sure it worked, it's just a different technique, one think I like about this place is you get a lot of options. how did you attach the bolt to the nut on the upper control arm. Did you have problems aligning the nut, did the suspension movement tend to loosen/tighten the nut.

Graham

Graham,
That pic is deceiving. The upper attachment is a tab welded to the second arm. Here's a better pic of the same attachment to a previous set of A-arms.

Ron

I was doing a little number crunching on the https://balancemotorsport.co.uk/suspens ... l-bars#cal page. Roll bar thickness name a huge difference. with a .75" bar it's 242 ibs/in with a 1" bar it's 766 ibs/in. So what should our roll stiffness be?

Graham

Graham,
The question is simple, but the answer is not. Other than a lot of trial and error, one needs a suspension analysis program and some on track experience from a starting point to answer the question.
Driven5 created a spreadsheet several years ago that works real well. Some of the info needed for input can be obtained using the Vsusp program (also created by a forum member).
Driven's spreadsheet was an xls doc. My mac converted it to Numbers. So, I can attach what I have and you should be able to use it if you have a Mac.
Ron

BTW, the 3/4" bar on my D-Mod Locost worked out to 170 lb/in.

Right, which is why I warned about that on page 1:

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

There are adjustable approaches too. Some of this stuff is very pricey, and maybe more complicated than you want, but you can design/build your own too.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I have looked at the blade style, it's a great idea but they are expensive and getting one with the exact angles I need would be tough. I think I would end up buying the blades and making my own mountings. I think I am going with a simple bar to start will and see were I end up. But these to look cool.

Graham

Graham, Somebody should offer a DIY kit including the tube. Cut it to the desired length and Viola! Tommy maybe or Jack?

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Graham,
The spreadsheet shared by Driven5 is here at the bottom of page 1:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19403&hilit=ChassisCalcsPublic

The anti-roll bar calc is emded within it. It will calc the roll stiffness contribution of the bar (either solid or tubular) and add it to the contribution of the springs. I suggest that a ballpark range for total rear roll stiffness is 25 to 30% for moderate HP and same size tires front and rear.

Ron

EDIT: Apparently the link no longer works.

I tried to attach my Numbers version of it, but "attachment" no longer accepts .xls or .numbers.
If you want, send me a pm and I can email my numbers version.

You should be able to include it in a forum post as a zip file.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Tom, thanks for the tip.

Thanks for posting, but it looks like perhaps a MacOS file? I use OpenOffice Calc, which will input a lot of formats, not a .numbers file. Does anyone have a Windows compatible version?

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886