RESTO-MOD 78 SPIT, GM V6-60/T5 FORD IRS/IFS

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Agreed. There is a cobra like green spit on page four with an sbc that looks well done. Lots of good (imho) examples on the triumph/mg site. Some are really old/pre-internet/portable mig/microwave/vcr, etc so it is too easy to be critical. My spit had been cut up for a sbf that was high mounted like that. I don't know if it ever ran but I know it was never finished.

The frame is a like a lot of oem vehicles back then with a 2x3 box cross section and some cross members and typical for a tbucket. I'll be adding another cross member under the radiator and around the middle between the trans and diff, plus the upper cross member over the diff for UCAPs and the coilover mount.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Coming along. Front mount nearly complete using original tbird hardware. Added a stiffening lock plate over the rear mount since the mount is 1/8x3 strip and access will not be good though I could put some grommets or a door in the trunk floor.

Those are 1/2 inch bolts at the rear mount and the washers on the front are for mock up to snug things without getting into the locking part of the nuts. Front mount curved strip is 1/8x2, square strips on bottom are 1/8x2x2, spacers are 1/8wall x .75 x 2.5 DOM, and the front and rear strips laying to the side are 1/8x3. 2x3 frame is 16" wide overall.

I'll be making a diff vent. The originals are very delicate plastic barb and always get bumped and snap off. It goes in the cover and they are not available new. There are a few machined versions but there is no way I'm paying $35. Considered tapping and fitting a metal diff vent with a crimp cap. I'm leaning toward a snug fitting metal tube for a hose loop.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Finished the diff mounting and remarked for alignment in the body before building the upper framing. I found the front bushings were not even from deformation on one set/side and rock hard. I considered making a set using the original hardware and nylon or uhmw, but a new energy poly bush set is $35.

Started wire brushing the fender wells and rear floor . This one spent some time in Florida.

[BostonWill]

Its really coming along! Interesting some of the "Frankenstein" work sometimes is created trying to graft in a different driveline into a car without much engineering thought. When I was about 20 yrs old I purchased one of the "transplant" books and read and re-read it to learn what was, back then, the best of home style engine swaps. I still have it somewhere and now some of the swaps look rather simple vs what we do today with the more advanced aftermarket pieces such as mounts, headers, bellhousings, etc.

I assume you will drill a couple of holes in the peeled back steel and do a fillet weld to better tie the old metal to the new?

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Thank you. I'm happy to have time to get back to it. I'd like to hear and see more about your book. I have what I consider to be an extensive print library that I still reference.

I agree. It is easy to judge old work with today eyes. Only those who grew up before computers and the internet can appreciate how far DIY has come through shared info and engineering programs.

Let us all stand on the shoulders of those before, just not on their heads.

After finishing the irs in the body, I will join it to the original rails will many 3/8 holes to plug welded all around with about five inches of engagement/overlap. The original rails are surprisingly thin metal. The upper cross member/rear body support for the coilovers will likely have floating fasteners in an oversize opening like the original.

The most problematic part is the coilover upper mounting since mine are about 18 inches eye to eye. Since they are designed for a much heavier car with a higher spring rate, I can have a less effective mounting angle for a reduced height cross member and closer to the original height transverse tunnel.

[BostonWill]

Thank you. I'm happy to have time to get back to it. I'd like to hear and see more about your book. I have what I consider to be an extensive print library that I still reference.
.

I will try to post a photo of it next weekend when I'm back it Wisconsin.

[B85]

Great looking build.

[rx7locost]

Now that I see it with the frame, it looks like a very elegant design. Almost like the factory would have done it, only better.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Thanks guys. I put a lot of thought into making things as simple as practical.

This weekend, I cut a patch from .050" sheet for the bonnet where the PO must have cut to clear the carb and linkage from a ford 5.0L. It was handy to have the hole when trying to get the v6-60 carb and air cleaner to clear but now it's time to fill it. Those are magnets from autopilot servo motors for heavy aircraft. It would have been better to square up the hole before making a patch but this will do. I'll do some more welding and metal work, just priming to slow the rust monster but it looks so much better without that hole. Except for a tube brace that ties the sides together, the dome hood is completely unsupported and subject to oil canning. Think I'll add a rib once I know it's right.

[BostonWill]

I am really enjoying your build on the Spitfire. I always thought the Spitfire & GT6 had some of the nicest lines of the small British sports cars.

A couple of years back someone in the Chicago area did have a posting for a Spitfire with a SBF 5.0/93 EFI intake fitted. It was a well-done job! He added a Jag XKE engine bulge to the hood which is larger than the GT6 bulge. It really fit the lines well! He used the T5 with a Tbird IRS rear end.

I looked at purchasing a new GT6 in 1971. Found I did not fit very well at 6'2" (with most of that height in my torso). Recently went to a car show in a park and circled a BRG GT6 several times, wishing I could somehow fit. At this age? No way!

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

It's a tight fit for me too. I tried miata seats but they gave up too much head room. Triumph didn't waste any space under the seats. To clear the bonnet with room for the v6 to rock and decent oil pan clearance required a lot of setback. Not many conversions clear the standard bonnet but I do like the GT6 bulge.

[BostonWill]

I would suggest Porsche 914 seats, but they have gone crazy in price of even a set of used shells these days. They are thin profile, somewhat comfortable, the seat tracks are easily adapted to about any car, and they are not near as wide, side to side as most aftermarket seats. The shell is fiberglass- very light! New upholstery is readily available and easy to install.

Porsche 914 seat.jpg

The driver's track even has some fore/aft tilt adjustment.

If you can find a set locally at a decent price, you might consider them for your car. Our any Locost application these would be a great choice!

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

I tried miata because all I had were seat frames but then I found a good set of spitfire seats (posted a pic on page one about halfway down). I also bought an upholstery kit from the UK just in case they don't last long.

I'm a big fan of fiero seats since they fit me perfectly and are very low but Mr. Mikes got very expensive. I bought a couple sets in leather from him early on.