Fenders

[tibimakai]

VM-77-Lotus-Seven-Replika-Barracuda-Tuning-4.jpg

I agree that those three points are important. I see some cars, that have the fender higher at the bottom, and they don't look good.
How do you purchase fenders from the Fender place? Over the phone, you just tell them the dimensions?

[tibimakai]

Check this gap out:

[KB58]

I sat a piece of 4x4 wood (3.5”) on top of the tire, sat the fender on it, and marked the holes.

[tibimakai]

Thanks KB58.
Most likely that is much as well.
I remember when I hooked up the rear sway bar, I barely had 1.5" bump travel.

[RTz]

Mine has gap (using genuine Caterham fenders and 15" wheels 205/50 tires). Like you I wasn’t initially a fan of that look. However it’s part of the original look. I wanted my car to look as authentic as possible and it appears that I mostly succeeded - I’ve had a number of Lotus owners ask me if it’s a genuine Lotus. It’s just part of the character (and dare I say charm of the 7) It has grown on me over time. Also, it’s so much ingrained into the rest of the chassis that it’s not easy to get away from without changing other dimensions that would likely throw off the overall shape. Donkervoort is the only builder I’ve seen do it well while still retaining the overall lines. Part of their success is using larger wheels/tires (typically 18”), but that adds weight and gyroscopics. Pick your compromises.

[tibimakai]

I'm not going with originality, since my car's proportion is a bit off, had to increase the rear end to fit the fuel cell in there, but not by much.
The arch next to the seat may not even line up with the fender because of this mod.
But there are no real reason why it should be that high, right?
The original Lotus 7s didn't have the bottom two pints of the fenders reach the bottom of the chassis, as earlier was pointed out?

[RTz]

But there are no real reason why it should be that high, right?

Correct, there is no functional purpose to being higher than what's needed for wheel travel. In fact it hurts, aerodynamically speaking. Smaller gap = better aero.

The original Lotus 7s didn't have the bottom two pints of the fenders reach the bottom of the chassis, as earlier was pointed out?

I don't know the official answer to that, I've seen them clocked pretty much all heights. Caterham fenders, as well as others, are more or less round so you can rotate them to put the lower forward point generally whatever height you want, it mainly effects how high the rear of the fender terminates.

[seattletom]

That's a unique approach, I like it! Any side pics?

Nothing recent, but here's a five-year old side pic and a rear quarter view:

PB045060-1.jpg

P1015073-1.jpg

Much progress over the last 5 years but not on the road yet.

[tibimakai]

It looks like Fender-n-more is gone.

[mainlandboy]

It looks like Fender-n-more is gone.

They were acquired by another company, who I assume you can still get custom fenders from:

https://www.dexko.com/news/1173/rockwel ... -n-more-fr

https://www.dextergroup.com/products/fenders

[tibimakai]

I have contacted Dexter, and that person did not know, if they make custom fenders.
I went with the UK Ebay seller, that I have posted earlier($400). I'm getting the rears for now, to be able to weld mounting points for them.
He has the front ones as well - 9" wide.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/267064409868?i ... SwOQVlSlVM

[skidzzz]

The views everybody refers to of Caterhams show the big clearance, but these are all without one or two 175 pound bodies in it. And the Caterham may be more softly sprung than what we’re building, and may allow more travel in bump.
I selected my bump and droop range, approx spring rate to buy , while consulting extensively with Dennis Brunton ( of Stalker fame). He was representing GAZ in cahoots with the Legendary Jack McCornack of Kinetic Vehicles.
Knowing the full bump for the inspiring weight vs sprung weight give you a good idea of that travel up. I’ll likely include a secondary bump stop to assure the max. Then with the 15” (approx, 22” diam.) tires I’m setting 1/2” to 3/4” gap from the top of tire at 3 1/2” bump. Using Jack’s Steamrollers. I ended raising the curving rear hoop 1” as it passes the top center of the fender.
Since I wanted the leading edge of the rear wings to equal the bottom edge of my frame, I will need to add to the length at the back edge of the fender until it matches my lower rear hoop. I kind of wanted to make that a flat surface as it trails off anyway. Both leading and back edges will then be tapered up away from the body as it heads out to the face of the fender, just like you see in most Caterhams, Donk
Skidzzz

[tibimakai]

Got the Ebay rear fenders and they are great. At the rear end, the mounting flange has a curved surface, most likely because the rear of the car has the rear corner curve. Mine is a bit longer there, so I will have to use a spacer there.
If I force the rear lower of the fender to be in the same plane(the whole fender flange), then I have a big radius gap between the fender and body.
I have it setup with a 3.5" between the tire and fender. I may lower it a bit.
You guys are installing these fenders to the aluminum skin, or to some steel tabs on the frame?
Recently I'm following somebody on Youtube as he builds a Caterham, he has two sets of mounting hardware. For the IVA he installs the steel hardware, and the second set is a plastic bolt set with metal fender washers. I guess when you hit something, it shears easier and does not do much damage to the body of the car.

20241208_214402.jpg

20241208_214332.jpg

20241208_214322.jpg

20241208_214315.jpg

20241208_214257.jpg

20241208_214243.jpg

20241208_214425.jpg

20241208_214322.png

[horchoha]

Fenders look good Tibor.

That bit of gap doesn't concern me much, use some vinyl fender welting and the mounting bolts will pull that gap closed.

I would not recommend mounting the fenders to just the skin, fab up some hard point tabs instead.

[tibimakai]

I feel the same way, that they should be mounted on some solid surfaces. I guess on Caterhams they are mounted just to the skin.
I don't know if it can be pulled in, they seem very solid. I will try when I get to that point, but I may have to chop off some of that bottom edge, that curves inward. I will lose some mounting surface, but it may be still enough, mounting with less bolts. Or fiberglass a new edge.