The locost formula for a slalom/track car. Egomans build

[egoman]

All the bolts were preinstalled in the inner flange and welded to make installation easier and to prevent leakage around the bolt holes.

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[egoman]

The inner flange is installed in the tank. The plastic in these cells when its drilled tends to shrink back a little. When you drill a 5/16 hole it will hold a 5/16 bolt quite snugly. Very handy in this situation.

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The filler neck is tightly installed here, this operation is complete.

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Now to reinstall the lid.

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And the pump goes back in, we wont have any problems with this assembly from here on in.

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[egoman]

All that was left to do was add fuel and it would fire right up . 2 gallons of our excellent canadian gasoline and the key was turned. WTF why isnt the fuel pump running????????? I looked all over the place to find out what was wrong and could find nothing. The egonephew arrived home from school and decided of his own free will to help me. ( He can be counted on for the glory moments.) All of a sudden the fuel pump became the last suspect. After removing the cell from the car and the pump from the cell(outside of course) we tested the pump with a battery and it ran perfectly. We had allready tested the power from the harness inside and now we were left with only a ground problem. A short sesssion of wire tracing resulted in finding a pair of ground wires that didnt have their eye anymore. We clamped them to the frame and the car fired right up. What a beautiful sound.
The dash still needs to be made to run properly and then the wire removal process begins. By the way the egonephew removed the wiring harness. Gentle apparently isnt in the new kids vocabulary.
So without further adieu these were the two offending wires. Only one needed to be reconnected to run the car but they will be paired together in the next work session.

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[dodgedartgt]

Do we have a countdown to motion?
Mikey B

[egoman]

We dont do countdowns or schedules. We do however get excited and the progress does kind of pick up when that happens.
It is a long way off from being driveable. There are no front coilovers, no brakes, and lots of wiring issues to figure out yet. Its up to the forum guys to keep me motivated. I check this site for new posts at least 3 times a day.

[dhempy]

Ego - Id like to thank you for that nifty crimping alternative. As a token of my appreciation, Ill share with you a similarly useful electrical tactic: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=5837

-dave "sparky" hempy

[egoman]

As the reply said they are after all insulated.
By the way I have some video of the start up but my video posting and link skills are non existant at this point.

[TerraRoot]

swift and excellent work egoman! been reading this thread quietly for a while, just though i pipe up and add motivation

[egoman]

I couldnt sleep last night at all. (Might be because the live supercross from indiana was one of the best races of the year). Anyways I was up at 5:30 this morning and the cat was anxious to get out the window.
Guess she wanted a snack.

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Sorry kitty the rabbits make the wife happy and when shes happy I can work on the car.

[egoman]

Knowing that I was going to be in the garage today I went and bought some electrical stuff. You will notice that these are nascar approved, I have discussed this with several "experts" and we figured they are worth at least 30hp.

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The battery with the picture of a racecar on it works quite well when charged up.
That should also be worth a few hp?????? I have started to run the main power leads from the battery out.

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I will be running the main ground directly to the battery hold down as this results in a nice short run. Shorter cables cost less..........locost if you will.

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[egoman]

I was working pipeline in the early 90s and the internal welding machine needed the cable swapped out. If its not the right length any more its life is over. I asked and recieved it and it stayed on the wall of my garage only to be used in my own racecars when I needed some. With the battery at the front you dont undersize the cables. Its actually a fairly light cable in welding circles but just right for cars.

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[egoman]

Making tabs and brackets seems to make up most of the project, this one is to hold up the main harness going to the engine and trans.

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Here are a few more shots of the bracket as it goes together. That is real light steel and when the car is disassembled the drill will make it even lighter.

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It looks really nice when the plug is attached.

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[egoman]

More brackets and the day goes on. This is the bracket for the engine and trans controller. (I think?????).

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There are a lot of wires at this end of the harness.I thought that I could start peeling them back but a lot of the circuits cut backwards through the harness .

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I attached this 3/8 thick threaded tab here for the ground. If everything is grounded back to the frame the grounds will be less of a problem.

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Heres the ground all attached. I may lug the cable end later but this could be a good place for boosting the car. HMMMMMM?????

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[egoman]

Thank you TR. I said it before, sometimes it gets lonely posting and not recieving any input. My buddies who follow the posts say that I would be done allready if I stayed away from the computer. Of course the ideas that I steal would dissappear.

[egoman]

Started to lay out the fuel cell mount today. The old bedframes that have been sitting around too long are cut up now.

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Here is a shot showing the fit up. Sometimes I miter the corners and some times I notch them, Apparently I was in a notching mood today.

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Here it is all welded up. I also took the time to knock off a pile of the rust that was there.

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The mount is in the car and tacked in place. Notice the rod coupling welded to the side of the cell frame. It will be used to hold the cell down.

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