Tim Taylor's Haynes Roadster Build Log

[Tim Taylor]

For better or worse (yes, I do think this is a marriage), I believe I have started.

Found a donor and picked it up today.







The engine and tranny were supposedly rebuilt about a year ago. I'm not sure how to check that but I know I will be separating the two to have a better look. The seller also told me that the person that rebuilt the engine put an SVO cam in there. All of the accessories are in the trunk (that's why it's riding low).







I also got a second engine (as well as turbo and all accessories) in the deal.



I am hoping to make a bit back selling off the parts. The Mercur fans seem be be fanatics.

Next up, build table.

[JackMcCornack]

Woohoo! Now that you've taken the plunge, we have to teach you the secret handshake!

[chetcpo]

Nice! I guess you're building a Gibbs frame then. Man that thing looks eerily similar to the 2.3 engines in my Volvo. Hopefully it doesn't wiegh as much.

[Tim Taylor]

Jack,

Now you can see why I would like to see you do the Gibbs chassis parts and any other parts (nose, scuttle, etc).

Chet,

Thanks for the Sticky

The two strapping 18 year old boys that put the engine on the trailer didn't have a problem I, on the other hand had a bit more trouble getting it off the trailer. It did put a bit of a hurtin' on the hand truck I used. I would guess it is in the 350 to 400 lb range

Can't wait to learn the secret handshake!

[IndyJoe]

Tim,

Congrats on taking the plunge! Nice score there with the XR4Ti. I look forward to seeing your build progress.

[Tim Taylor]

A little update to the build.

The typical beginning stages of the build picture


I'll start tacking tomorrow but what should I do about this joint? Should I fully weld then grind it down before adding the left diagonal piece? Doesn't look like there's much of a joint there for all three pieces to hold a good joint.

[killernoodle]

If you grind the two outside edges back a little, you can probably make a nice little recess to fill with weld and still get the edge in between.

[Off Road SHO]

I think I would put a splice piece inside the top joint. If you pre-drill the top of the "T" with a couple of holes, you can then weld through the holes to your splice piece. If you're using 1" square as your main frame piece, a 3/4" square will fit inside for the splice.

Tom

[dhempy]

Yes, I finish welded the interior joint before adding in the third tube. If convenient, weld the square one first, to make grinding it flat easier.

Or you could just crank up the heat and hope for the best!

I don't think a splice would work, since the two side tubes are not straight. (If I recognize the joint correctly, that is)

-dave

[Tim Taylor]

You are correct, that is a 10 degree going into a 15 degree. I thought of Noodles idea and that is what I did. I'll just weld and grind.

[Blackbird]

Or just move the cross tube a couple milimeters and get all three of them at once.

Moti

[Tim Taylor]

A little further along. So far the book and dimensions have been spot on. Some of the pieces needed a bit of persuasion to get into place but after measurements I'm pretty close.





I like this one. Funny what the camera does to the perspective.



Next step, according to the book, is the rear end.

[michmark]

Tim,

The Haynes Book talks about using 25mm tubing and I assume that the 'Merican stuff is 1 inch (25.4mm). Have you noticed any problems in measurements so far? Are you cutting the tubes to the book length or cutting to the measured dimensions that the outside frame establishes?

Mark Bates

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

What a great donor!

I would use a tooth brush and a cup of gas or cloth washing powders to emulsify the crud on the drivetrain, then hit it with a pressure washer and drain the oil. No need to get everything filthy.

Will the hood fit over the tb or will you be making a new upper intake to drop the tb to the driver side, with a U crossover pipe around the head to the compressor?

If you decide to rebuild, don't shave the head or deck the block unless it is necessary because it retards the timing. An adjustable cam gear from Esslinger can correct the timing issue.

I'd get a bead blaster cabinet to clean up everything for paint. Wrinkle black or wrinkle (Ferrari) red would look great.

[Tim Taylor]

The Haynes Book talks about using 25mm tubing and I assume that the 'Merican stuff is 1 inch (25.4mm). Have you noticed any problems in measurements so far? Are you cutting the tubes to the book length or cutting to the measured dimensions that the outside frame establishes?

Actually mine measures 25mm exactly. There were a couple tubes that Gibbs has you install after the fact. Some of those tubes needed a bit of adjustment. Well within the 2mm tolerances of the 'new book'

The engine with all the crud is the spare. The actual engine I will be using is in fairly good shape.

I will be rerouting the intake/crossover to the front maybe via an intercooler.

Supposedly the engine I will be using has been rebuilt. I pulled the head off and everything seems pretty clean, cyliders honed etc. but try as I might I couldn't rotate the engine. I pullled the pistons and I think whoever rebuilt it used rings the wrong rings as they were TIGHT.

I was considering a bead blast cabinet but I'm not sure where I'd put it. I may have to suffer and squeeze it in my shop. Wrinkle red would be cool.